Countdown to the ONLY WATCH Auction, 28th September, 2013. Post #17: Harry Winston, Only Watch 2013 Midnight Big Date

<<< Post #16: Girard-Perregaux                   Post #18: Hublot >>>

Today's watch comes from the house of Harry Winson, the Only Watch 2013 Midnight Big Date.

Harry Winston

Harry Winston was a prominent and infulential American jeweller (b.1896 - d.1978). His father, Jacob, opened a small jewellery business after immigrating from Ukraine to the United States. Harry worked in his fathers shop from a young age, learning all he could about the business and the art itself. There is a story which says that Harry recognised and purchased a two-carat emerald in a pawn shop for 25 cents, going on to sell it two days later for $800.


In 1932, the first store bearing his name opened its doors. It quickly gained a reputation for being able to provide the finest diamonds and gemstones and became favoured by royals, wealthy and famous patrons.

The glitz of the Academy Awards owes part of its legacy to Harry Winston who, in 1943, was the first jeweller to loan diamonds to an actress. Best Actress nominee, Jennifer Jones, who went on to win for her role in The Song of Bernadette. His signature diamonds set a new standard and became popular with Hollywood celebrities.

The song Diamonds Are a Girl's Best Friend, as sung in the 1953 motion picture Gentlemen Prefer Blondes by Marilyn Monroe, includes the spoken line, "Talk to me Harry Winston, tell me all about it!"

Celebrating a long history as a jeweller to the stars, Harry Winson, Inc. celebrated the fiftieht anniversary of the 1939 classice, The Wizard of Oz by creating a pair of ruby slippers made of rubies and diamonds, a far cry from the sequins used on the original movie props.




In 1949, Harry Winston acquired the Hope diamond. Arguably the world’s most famous gemstone, the Hope is a 45.52-carat (9.10 g) dark blue diamond. The Hope was donated by Harry Winston to the Smithsonian Institution in 1958, as a gift to the American people. On display at in the Smithsonian’s Harry Winston Gem Gallery, the Hope is a testament to Winston's legacy of rare and magnificent gems.

Aside from the Hope diamond, Harry Winston owned many other famous diamonds during his lifetime, including:


    Porter Rhodes (53 carats)
    The Portuguese (127.01 carats)
    The Crown of Charlemagne (37.05 carats)
    The Briolette of India (90.38 carats)
    The Qamar-I-Sultana (44 carats)
    The Arcots (33.70 and 23.65 carats)
    The Anastasia (Three emerald cuts weighing 42.95, 30.90 and 22.88 carats)
    The Ashoka (Originally 42.47 carats)
    The Cornflower Blue (31.93 carats)
    Countess Széchényi (62.05 carats)
    The Deepdene (104.52 carats)
    The Deal Sweetener (45.31 carats)
    The Blue Heart (30.82 carats)
    Étoile du Désert (50.67 carats)
    The Idol's Eye (70.20 carats)
    The Indore Pears (46.95 and 46.70 carats)
    The Jonker (Twelve gems, the largest weighing 125.35 carats)
    The Liberator (Four gems weighing 38.88, 18.12, 8.93 and 1.44 carats)
    Louis XIV (58.60 carats)
    McLean Diamond (31.26 carats)
    The Mabel Boll (44.76 carats)
    The Nassak (43.38 carats)
    The Nepal (79.41 carats)
    The Niarchos (128.25)
    The Oppenheimer (253.70 carats)
    The Vargas diamond (726.6 carats)

Most of the diamonds mentioned have a fascinating history before and since Harry Winston with many of them being cut and re-cut, sold and re-sold and passed down among generations of royalty.

In September 2009, Harry Winston, Inc. announced a project to re-design the Hope’s setting to commemorate the 50th Anniversary Winston’s donation of the stone to the Smithsonian. The setting design was chosen by the American public in an online poll, and the new setting was revealed in November 2010.

Harry Winston's legacy continues to this day and the following video highlights pieces from this years "Water Collection".

The brand introduced a collection of fine timepieces in 1989 combining fine design and careful manufacturing of complicated and gem-set watches.


In 2000, Harry Winston began to invite the world's most innovative independent watchmakers to create a unique model for its Opus series of watches. Since 2000, the company has brought out a new model each year.

    Opus One, designed by François-Paul Journe.
    Opus Two, designed by Antoine Preziuso.
    Opus Three, designed by Vianney Halter.
    Opus Four, designed by Christophe Claret (see video below)
    Opus Five, designed by Félix Baumgartner.
    Opus Six, designed by Greubel & Forsey.
    Opus Seven, designed by Andreas Strehler.
    Opus Eight, designed by Frédéric Garinaud.
    Opus Nine, designed by Wiederrecht & Giroud.
    Opus Ten, designed by Jean-François Mojon.
    Opus Eleven, designed by Denis Giguet.
    Opus Twelve. designed by Emmanuel Bouchet.
    Opus Thirteen, designed by Ludovic Ballouard.

In 2007, the company opened it's own manufacture in Geneva, Switzerland.


Below is a video of Christophe Claret talking about the Harry Winston Opus Four.

Only Watch 2013 Midnight Big Date

Only Watch Midnight Big Date embodies the quintessence of watchmaking, imbued with a sense of authenticity and refinement. Topped with a bezel discreetly bearing the three iconic arches of the Harry Winston Fifth Avenue salon in New York City, the case is crafted in 18ct polished rose gold. Its 42mm diameter frames a mechanical automatic winding movement composed of 297 parts, with an 18ct rose gold skeletonized rotor, circular grained and hand-chamfered, visible through a sapphire crystal display back.

Catalogue Description:

Harry Winston Midnight Big Date for Only Watch Harry Winston Midnight Big Date, Ref. MIDABD42RR004 A fine and unique, 18k pink gold self-winding wristwatch with big date. Accompanied by a fitted box and Certificate.

C. 18k pink gold, circular, polished, sapphire crystal D. Black broad snailed finish dial base, sunray satin-brushed chapter ring excentered at 12 O’clock, baguette-emerald-cut diamond at 12 O’clock (approx. 0.019 ct), black fine snailed-finish chapter ring center, applied rose gold date circle set with 1 brilliant-cut pink diamond at 6 O’clock (approx. 0.005 ct), sunray satin-brushed finish at the center. M. HW1018, 35 jewels, power reserve 72 hours, twin barrels, one barrel equipped with a slipping spring, balance wheel, annular balance wheel, flat balance spring, skeletonized, 18K rose gold rotor, Côtes de Genève, circular grained, hand-chamfered, rhodium plated.

Estimate: 25,000 EUR - 35,000 EUR

<<< Post #16: Girard-Perregaux                    Post #18: Hublot >>>

Post by Pawnbank.

 
Links to all the articles in our countdown can be found on the original post

Countdown to the ONLY WATCH Auction, 28th September, 2013. Post #16: Girard-Perregaux- Chrono Hawk Only Watch

<<< Post #15: Frederique Constant              Post #17: Harry Winston >>>

Today's post presents Girard-Perregaux's, Chrono Hawk Only Watch

Girard-Perregaux 

The history of the Girard-Perregaux manufacture dates back to 1791 when watchmaker and goldsmith Jean-François Bautte signed his first watches. He created a manufacturing company in Geneva which, for the first time ever, handled all the facets of watchmaking in one location, starting with the design and engineering of the watch all the way to the final hand assembly and hand polishing of each watch.

In 1852, the watchmaker Constant Girard founded the Girard & Cie Firm in La Chaux-de-Fonds. He, then, married Marie Perregaux and the Girard-Perregaux Manufacture was born in 1856. In 1906, Constant Girard-Gallet, who took over control of the Manufacturer from his father, took over the Bautte House and merged it with Girard-Perregaux & Cie. Since then, the brand has pursued its activities by reinforcing from its position in the domain of prestigious mechanical watches.

The Manufacture holds approximately 80 patents in the watch-making domain and is the originator of many innovative concepts.

In 1880, Constant Girard produced the first ever major commercial production of a wristwatch, made for German naval officers and ordered by German Kaiser Wilhelm I for his German naval officers. Two-thousand such watches were ordered and produced, which represents the first important commercialization of wristwatches.

In 1884, Constant Girard submitted to the United States Patent Office a patent of the design of the movement “Tourbillon with three gold bridges.” The Tourbillon complication had been invented in 1801 by Abraham-Louis Breguet. Girard was fascinated and decided that he wanted to produce a tourbillon bearing the companies name within his lifetime.The three bridges were redesigned in the form of arrows and placed parallel to each other. The movement was no longer just a functional and technical element, but it also became an element of design in every way. In 1889, the Tourbillon with three gold bridges was awarded a gold medal at the Universal Exposition of Paris. In 1980, Girard-Perregaux decided to make 20 pieces to conform to the original of 1889: 1500 hours of work were necessary to create the first one. To celebrate its bicentenary in 1991, the company created a miniaturised wristwatch version of its famed Tourbillon with three gold Bridges.

 "La Esmeralda" (below), is the most celebrated example of the famous Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges, Constant Girard-Perregaux's masterpiece. 1889. Pink gold hunter watch sumptuously engraved with "CG" monogram. Enamel dial. Movement with three parallel gold bridges, a tourbillon detent escapement and gold wheel plates. This watch was given to the President of Mexico,Porfirio Díaz, at the end of the 19th century.

"La Esmeralda"

Two-sided pink gold hunter pocket watch (below) signed "Girard-Perregaux", circa 1890. Enamel dials with the hours, minutes and seconds on one side, and the days, months and lunations on the other. This watch belonged to King Farouk of Egypt.

Two-sided pink gold hunter pocket watch

Enamelled yellow gold cruciform pendant-watch (below) signed "Girard-Perregaux", circa 1870. The front of the cross is decorated with painted enamel religious motifs. The back is engraved and enamelled with the Ave Maria in Latin. White enamel dial encircled by a bezel set with brilliants. Cross-shaped movement.
 

Gold Cruciform Pendant

   Book-shaped pendant-watch (below) signed "Girard-Perregaux", circa 1860. Engraved yellow gold case decorated with blue enamel. Enamel dial protected by a small grill surmounted by a multicoloured medaillon. Double photograph frame inside.

Book shaped Pendant Watch

One little known fact is the Girard-Perregaux is also the pioneer of Quartz movements. In the late 1960's, it was one of the few manufacturers with a seperate research and development team. This in-house research allowed the company to introduce and manufacture the first Swiss-designed Quartz watches in 1970. In 1973 they had introduced the first Quartz watch with Light-emitting Diode (LED) and has become a significant Swiss supplier of Quartz movements and OEM watches to other famous brands. Everyone knew by then that the future of the wristwatch was in Quartz and Girard-Perregeaux quickly realised that unlike mechanical watches, quartz watches are able to be easily mass produced by machines. Seiko proved that Japan could produce more efficiently and at a lower cost. The rest is history.

Being a sole manufacture, Girard-Perregaux still hold true to the traditional approach. All movements and watches, cases and bands are brought together in-house. Every step involves different components and watchmakers, engineers, decorators, polishers. All artisans in their own fields with dedication to the time honoured craftsmanship ensuring the highest possible quality.

Chrono Hawk Only Watch
Clad in a matt-black ceramic case set with a rare silvery-white palladium bezel, the Girard-Perregaux Chrono Hawk Only Watch declares its bold identity. Hints of red on the dial and the strap underline its attachment to the Only Watch charity auction.

Girard-Perregaux Chrono Hawk

Catalogue Description:

Girard-Perregaux Chrono Hawk for Only Watch Girard-Perrgaux Chrono Hawk, Ref. 49970-32-1304SBF60 A fine and unique, ceramic and palladium self-winding wristwatch with chronograph and date. Accompanied by a fitted box and certificate.

C. Ceramic case, palladium bezel, caseback held by 6 screws, sapphire crystals D. Black carbon-finish, subsidiary dials for constant seconds and 30-minutes counter, aperture for date. M. Girard-Perregaux GP03300, 61 jewels, 46 hour power reserve

Estimate: 14,000 EUR - 18,000 EUR

<<< Post #15: Frederique Constant              Post #17: Harry Winston >>>

Post by Pawnbank.

Links to all the articles in our countdown can be found on the original post

Countdown to the ONLY WATCH Auction, 28th September, 2013. Post #15: Frederique Constant- Lady Automatic Double Heart Beat Set

<<< Post #14: De Witt                 Post #16: Girard-Perregaux >>>

Today we present Frederique Constant's elegant Lady Automatic Double Heart Beat Set.

Frederique Constant 

"LIVE YOUR PASSION"

 The manufacture, Frederique Constant was founded in 1988 by Aletta and Peter Stas. The name itself was derived from watchmakers Frederique Schreiner (1881-1969) and Constant Stas (1880-1967). Peter Stas, co-founder and CEO is a 4th generation descendant of Constant Stas who made printed clock dials for the watch industry after founding his company in 1904.

Since its founding, Frederique Constant has grown into one of the larger Swiss watch manufacturers. Production reached over 120,000 watches in 2011 and are sold in excess of 2,700 retailers in over 100 countries around the globe. Frederique Constant positions itself in the accessible luxury segment, with most of its watches selling around $1200 - $6000 clearly stating that "our mission is not to restrict the interest in Frédérique Constant watches to a limited and elitist circle of connoisseurs but rather to a broader selection of appreciative enthusiasts who want to enjoy high quality classical watches at sensible prices".

The manufacture operates a 3200 sqm facility in Plan-les-Ouates, spread over four floors and comprising the sectors of movement component production, calibre assembly, watch assembly, and extensive, state-of-the-art quality control. The basement level is where all the components are manufactured.

2001 saw the development of Frederique Constant's first patented manufacture caliber in co-operation with the École d'Horlogerie de Genève, École d'Ingenieurs de Genève and the Horloge Vakschool Zadkine. The Heart Beat Manufacture has a characteristic bridge for the balance wheel on the front side of the caliber. Utilising this configuration made it possible to have the spiral and fine regulation on the front side as well, creating the Heart Beat design.

The company's "Heart Beat Manufacture" won the "Watch of the Year" Award of Horloges Magazine in the category up to € 3000 in 2005.

In February 2007, Frederique Constant began production of the Silicium escapement wheel (first introduced to the industry by Patek Philippe in 2005). In October of that year the Heart Beat Calibre FC 935 Silicium was introduced. It implements new high tech materials to create better, more precise and more reliable mechanical watches.

In April 2008, the manufacture created a tourbillon with a silicium escape-wheel and, for the first time, an amplitude of over 300 degrees between its vertical and horizontal positions. Coupled with rapid oscillation, this gives the watch an unusually high level of precision.

In 2012 the Worldtimer watch made its debut, implementing a unique mechanism, adjusted solely via the crown. The Worldtimer function is used by selecting the desired city and placing it at the 12 o'clock position on the dial. Internal discs automatically synchronise, and after that, it is possible to see what time it is in any of the 24 cities on the dial. In addition, thin discs also indicate at a glance whether it is day or night.

Many manufactures become sponsors or official timekeepers of various events such as rallies, formula one racing and tennis. The company sponsored the Hélice Classique Genève and Lake Tahoe Concours d'Elegance and developed it's Runabout range to pay tribute to the legendary Runabout gentlemen's sports boats of the roaring 20s. The events showcased the best vintage wood boats, which competed for top honors in 13 classes. They have also sponsored the Peking to Paris, Healey Challenges and La Carrera Panamericana.

Frederique Constant is also heavily involved in charitable events and organisations.
US$50 from the sale of each watch from its Double Heart Beat Collection are donated to various charities including those related to the heart and children.
During the 2010 Passion Awards for Charity event in New York, the American Heart Association received a US$50,000 cheque from the company.
The International Children's Heart Foundation received two cheques to the value of US$50,000 and US$75,000 in 2008 and 2011, respectively. The Foundation helps to diagnose and care for children with congenital heart disease in developing countries.
The company partners with the World Heart Federation on the "Hearts of Children" campaign an in a multi-national survey conducted in Brazil, India, UK and the USA by the World Heart Federation regarding perceptions and awareness of heart disease.
2013 will be the seventh time that Frederique Constant has been a partner of the Only Watch Auction to raise funds for scientific and medical research on neuromuscular diseases in general and Duchenne muscular dystrophy in particular.

More information about Frederique Constant's charitable efforts can be found here.

Via email, Frederique Constant founder and CEO, Peter Stas, stated:

"The watch we have offered to the Only Watch Auction is a continuation of other charitable efforts based on our Double Heart Beat Collection.

For Only Watch, we created an unique model in 18K gold with diamonds set on the sides of case in addition to topring and dial. Total results in a new high-end beautiful Frederique Constant watch that is delivered together with Frederique Constant jewelry.

We are looking forward to a high auction price so that the watch can contribute to research in muscular distrophy."

- Peter Stas, CEO and founder of Frederique Constant.

We can hope that each timepiece on offer in the Only Watch auction brings the highest possible result so that funds can be raised for the research and fight against muscular dystrophy.

The following video showcases the unique Lady Automatic Double Heart Beat timepiece and matching three-piece jewellery set.

Lady Automatic Double Heart Beat Set

Unique Lady Automatic Double Heart Beat timepiece with a dazzling 19 carat rose gold case "pave" with sparkling diamonds and "Only Watch 2013" hand engraved on the case back. Presented in a specially designed leather gift box. The successful bidder will also be receiving a matching three-piece jewellery set: a delicate and attractive pendant, bracelet and matching pair of earrings. All three pieces are finished in the same 18-carat rose gold, creating the perfect ensemble for that special evening out.

Catalogue Description:

Frederique Constant, Lady Automatic "Double Heart Beat" for Only Watch Frederique Constant, Lady Automatic “Double Heart Beat,” Ref. FC-310DHB2PPV9 Fine and unique, 18k pink gold and diamond-set self-winding wristwatch accompanied by an 18k pink gold and diamond bracelet, pendant and earrings. Accompanied by a fitted box and Certificate. Double Heart” Bracelet Reference FC505A9 Description 18K pink gold “Double Hearts” with one “Double Heart” Pavé Diamond (0.08ct) and Semi Precious Stones. “Double Heart” Pendant Reference FC205A9 Description 18K Rose gold “Double Hearts” with Pavé diamonds (0.42ct) “Double Heart” Earrings Reference FC604A9 Description 18K Rose gold “Double Hearts” with Pavé diamonds (0.36ct)

C. 18K pink gold case set with 193 full-cut diamonds, VS clarity, H color (1.424ct) on the bezel, Convex sapphire crystal, screw-down, see-through caseback, Crown set with an amber cabochon, water-resistant to 3ATM, unique “Only Watch 2013” engraving on the caseback. D. Opaline dial & MOP decoration in the outer ring, 8 diamond indexes (0.08ct) hearts “guilloché” decoration in the center, “Double Heart,” aperture at twelve O’clock. M. Cal. FC-310, automatic caliber, “Double Heart” aperture, perlage finishing on the balance's bridge opening, 38-hour power reserve.

Estimate: 12,000 EUR - 16,000 EUR

<<< Post #14: De Witt                 Post #16: Girard-Perregaux >>>

Post by Pawnbank.

Links to all the articles in our countdown can be found on the original post

Countdown to the ONLY WATCH Auction, 28th September, 2013. Post #14: DeWitt- Twenty-8-Eight High Jewellery Skeleton Tourbillon

<<< Post #13: deLaCour                      Post #15: Frederique Constant >>>

Today we bring you the Twenty-8-Eight High Jewellery Skeleton Tourbillon by DeWitt.

DeWitt

Founded in 2003, DeWitt has become a formidable brand reflecting the vision of it's founder, Jerome de Witt.

The first timepiece to bear the name was released that same year, the Pressy Grande Complication and comprised tourbillon, minute-repeater, fly-back chronograph and bi-retrograde perpetual calendar complications, paying homage to the most elaborate and respected watchmaking traditions.

Shortly thereafter, DeWitt was awarded the the prestigious honour of First Prize for Innovation at the Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie de Genève for its "Academia Tourbillon Différentiel", a timepiece of a rare distinction with a Tourbillon mechanism and a patented differential system.This highly regarded sign of recognition immediately positioned the young DeWitt brand at the top of the Haute Horlogerie ladder.

Demonstrating a philosophy of unique vision, daring to be different and unconventional, DeWitt launched its first concept watch, the WX-1, at once an exclusive timepiece and an objet d’art. It immediately highlighted the creativity of the House of DeWitt. This exceptional creation embodies a range of cultural values merging design, futurism, sophisticated construction of its various elements with a vertical flying tourbillon and five barrels ensuring a 21-day power reserve.

DeWitt designs and produces watches in a world of its own. Every DeWitt watch is built by a passionate and dedicated master horologist and incorporates a clever twist on the classical watchmaker's art. And this is precisely what sets the brand apart.

The video below showcases the DeWitt Twenty-8-Eight Tourbillon

This watch is adorned with the first DeWitt entirely home-made Tourbillon movement. The DeWitt calibre DW8028 is a manually wound movement integrating a solid and reliable Tourbillon mechanism: 18'000 A/h, 72 hours power reserve.
The finishings are entirely hand-made. Meticulously angled, polished and satin-finished, the barrel and cage-bridges are finely decorated with Côtes de Genève. A little plate, bearing the signature of the master watchmaker and placed on the barrel-bridge, further witnesses the pride and affection put into the creation of each timepiece.

Twenty-8-Eight High Jewellery Skeleton Tourbillon

43mm white gold case set with baguette-cut and brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 3.7cts). Mechanical and skeletonised manually wound movement integrating a Tourbillon manufactured by DeWitt.

 Catalogue Description:

DeWitt TWENTY -8-EIGHT HIGH JEWELERY SKELETON TOUR BILON UNIQUE PIECE FOR ONLY WATCH Fine and unique, 18k white gold, baguette and brilliant cut diamond skeletonized tourbillon wristwatch.

C. Round case adorned with DeWitt imperial columns on the flanks, bezel and case set with baguette and brilliant cut diamonds (3.7 cts) 18-carat white gold polished crown adorned with a blackened titanium ring featuring the “W” signature, sapphire crystal. D. Skeletonized M. Caliber DW8028s, developed and produced by DeWitt: mechanical and skeletonized manually-wound movement integrating a Tourbillon manufactured by DeWitt, hand-finished, 72-hour power reserve, 18,000 vph, variable-inertia balance, Straumann Hairspring® spiral with Phillips curve sequenced at 2.5 Hz., 44° angle escapement, 19 jewels, 185 components, carved-out main plate, sand-brushed nickel silver base colored in pearly white, skeletonized “W” logo positioned at 9 O’clock. Angled, polished, and satin-finished case, plate, bridges, wheels and miniature screws. 18-carat yellow gold balance and escapement wheel. Hand-made by a single watchmaker.

Estimate: 250,000 EUR - 300,000 EUR

<<< Post #13: deLaCour                      Post #15: Frederique Constant >>>

Post by Pawnbank.

Links to all the articles in our countdown can be found on the original post

Countdown to the ONLY WATCH Auction, 28th September, 2013. Post #13: deLaCour Red Dots

<<<Post #12: De Bethune                     Post #14: DeWitt >>>

Today we present deLaCour's "Red Dots"

deLaCour

deLaCour was born out of a passion for avant-garde design and craftmanship and released their first collection in 2003. The bold, sleek lines instantly found success with watch lovers.

At the heart of the initial collection was the Bichrono, the first timepiece in history to possess a double automatic chronograph and was a conceptual development by Pierre Koukjian. Five months after the unveiling, the Bichrono was selected as a finalist in the Grand Prix de Geneve and in 2004 went on to win the Unique Design Watch of the Year Award in Tokyo.

As with the art and fashion markets, that of watches can be heavily saturated with trends that many brands try to set, follow or at least adhere to. deLaCour aims towards a niche clientele who value individuality over all. The company's slogan is "Since Tomorrow" and claim that is defines their conception and creativity and due to constant innovation, that the history of the brand is written in the future.


The following video showcases the deLaCour 'Birepetition' model.

"In an age when electricity was unknown and luminous hands were not yet invented,
it was useful to hear the time instead of searching in the dark. The minute repeater is a
complex and entirely mechanical system which strikes only on demand, the hours, quarters
and minutes indicated by the hands".




Red Dots

deLaCour's Red Dots timepiece is a way to acquire elegance and sobriety, maintaining sportsmanship and deLaCour's unique sense of style.

Catalogue description:

DELA COUR RED DOT S DeLaCour, Genève, RED DOTS. Very fine and unique, curved, light, self-winding, water-resistant, PVD titanium wristwatch with square button chronograph, registers, date, power reserve with a titanium deLaCour buckle. Accompanied by its Certificate of Origin, Warranty and instruction sheets. Dial, case and movement signed.

C. Three-body, matte, stepped lugs, side of the case with red dots case back secured by 8 screws engraved, sapphire crystal. D. White, black Arabic numerals, subsidiary dials for the seconds at 9, power reserve indication at 3, aperture for the date at 4. Skeleton dauphine hands with luminous tips. M. Cal. DC 280, rhodium-plated, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating balance spring.

Estimate: 10,000 EUR - 14,000 EUR

<<<Post #12: De Bethune                     Post #14: DeWitt >>>

Post by Pawnbank.

Links to all the articles in our countdown can be found on the original post

Countdown to the ONLY WATCH Auction, 28th September, 2013. Post #12: De Bethune

<<< Post #11: Cyrus                      Post #13: deLaCour>>>

Today we bring you the DB28 Skybridge from De Bethune.

De Bethune

De Bethune was founded in 2002 by David Zanetta, a collector with a passion for art, history and timepieces and Denis Flageollet, the son, grandson and great-grandson of watchmakers. Both shared a vision of the future of watchmaking and in the decade to follow, have gained a reputation as laying the foundations of where this century of watchmaking will lead.

By adhering to the line "not doing more, but doing better", they have pushed the boundaries in their efforts to blend time-honoured skills and the latest scientific breakthroughs into a seamless quest for precision and craftsmanship. The technical and the aesthetic meld together in the pursuit of perfection.

The methodology of De Bethune's workshop lies in it's determination to be a cutting-edge research and development laboratory. Implementing the spirit and procedures of master watchmakers of the last 200 years and utilising vast scientific knowledge, insatiable curiosity, artistic and historical erudition and mixing in a passion for beauty and aesthetic flair. This dedication has led to the company owning nine patents, thirteen calibres and fifteen innovations all within a time span of eleven years.

De Bethune isn't beholden to the standard materials in the world of horology. Gold, titanium and steel are all par for the course but, as though picturing themselves as modern alchemists, the Manufacture will use platinum, silicon, palladium amongst others. If they cannot achieve the desired effect with one then they will create an alloy of two in order to achieve the desired effects such as balance or reducing friction.

With a mindset on one side, steeped in the oldest of watchmaking traditions, while on the other is striving and pushing forward to the future, De Bethune proudly present a couple hundred pieces each year to a growing following of connoisseurs. The possibilities are limitless as limitations are only seen as a wall that needs to be broken down. While some other companies are proudly carrying on complications and traditions they have used for many years, the young guns of the industry seem to pushing the boundaries and taking horology into the 21st century and beyond.


The following video from Baselworld 2012,  shows the DB28 upon which the Skybridge is based.

Skybridge


De Bethune star-studded sky in blued mirror-polished grade 5 titanium encrusted with white gold and diamond stars representing the sky of November 19, 1857, the establishment of the National Monegasque Feast Day by Prince Charles III. Upon coming to the throne in 2005, Prince Albert decided to maintain the November 19th national holiday date, Saint Rainier's Feast Day, in memory of his father. 

Catalogue description:

De Bethune DB28 Skybridge MC for Only Watch De Bethune, “DB28 SKybridge MC”. Fine and unique, platinum, white gold and diamond-set wristwatch with the dial depicting the sky as seen from Monaco on November 19, 1857, the establishment of The National Monegasque Feast Day by Prince Charles III, twin self-regulating barrel, De Bethune silicon-palladium annular balance and a titanium De Bethune buckle. Accompanied by a fitted box and Certificate.

C. Three-body, round drum shape, with bezel in polished platinum, titanium floating lugs, screw-down crown, transparent back, anti-reflective sapphire crystals to 1800 Vickers D. Flame-blued titanium dial depicting the sky as seen from Monaco on November 19, 1857, the establishment of The National Monegasque Feast Day by Prince Charles III, picked out by 7 invisibly set white diamonds, further stars in applied white gold. Blued and mirror-polished steel hands. M. Cal. DB2105, mainplate and bridges in beveled and hand-polished steel, 27 jewels, twin self-regulating barrel, silicon-palladium annular balance, balance spring with flat terminal curve, silicon escape wheel, triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system, spherical moon phase indication. Dial, case and movement signed.

Estimate: 100,000 EUR - 130,000 EUR

<<< Post #11: Cyrus                      Post #13: deLaCour>>>

Post by Pawnbank.

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Countdown to the ONLY WATCH Auction, 28th September, 2013. Post #11: Cyrus

<<< Post #10: Corum                     Post #12: De Bethune>>>

Today's post brings you a relative new comer to the watch making world, Cyrus, and the first model in the new Kambys Collection.

Cyrus

Founded by cousins, Laurent and Julien Lecamp, Cyrus watches gained its name from the conqueror, Cyrus the Great who is considered a pioneer of human rights when he lived 2500 years ago.
Laurent and Julien both took separate paths, choosing business school and architecture/design, respectively.

Laurent had begun work as a brand manager for wines and spirits before moving into the watchmaking world developing distribution networks for several brands, dreaming of creating and distributing his own brand around the world. Julien started as an architect in France, dreaming of designing major projects in famous cities of the world, although he really wanted to create lasting pieces of art that could be appreciated over time. They both shared a love of watchmaking and in 2001 decided to unite their skills and passion. With three years of preparation and the aid of an investor and renowned watchmaker and developer, Jean-Francois Mojon, the wheels were set in motion and Cyrus was born.

Cyrus regards itself as something of an unorthodox, non-conventional firm. They are committed to innovation and working outside the box without compromising on quality and design aesthetic.

In the short history of Cyrus, they have made an impressive impact in the world of horology, taking out the "Best Independent Brand" prize at the Watchmaker's Night of Monaco in their inaugural year.


Kuros Collection
The main idea of the Kuros Collection was to create unique desing without mimicking nor reinventing what already exists. Bearing the Greek name for Cyrus the Great (Kuros), this collection features design influence from the past while keeping hold of the future. The patented design is made to comfortably hold the curve of the wearers wrist while the folding clasp bears it's own unique design. Each series within the collection is limited to 188 pieces.
On the back of the gold editions is a replication of a 2500 year old Cyrus gold coin, the original of which is held by Cyrus Watches, and bears the representation of a bull and lion fighting.

Cyrus Kuros

Klepcys Collection- Mars
Cyrus released the Cyrus Klepcys Mars, a new version of the Cyrus Klepcys collection. This new model has to been seen as an independent one even if the core of the watch is the same, the mechanism has been slightly modified and the timepiece tells a whole different story. The 3D Moonphase from the other models has been redesigned for the planet Mars and bears a uniquely shaped sapphire dome which has been especially created for this timepiece as the 5 mm hand-painted Mars representation is too big and therefore cannot be placed under a uniform sapphire. That outside “bubble” is the first of its kind and is incredibly difficult to make (no one in Switzerland has been able to produce one!).


The face of Mars is a unique complication, a world premiere, it is the first time that a complication focuses entirely on the Mars planet. This small representation of the planet has been hand-painted and is rotating at the same speed as it moves in the universe : 24 hours, 37 minutes and 22 seconds.

Cyrus Klepcys Mars

Kambys Collection

The Kambys Collection makes its debut this year and the very first model is destined for the ONLY WATCH auction.


The video below showcases the intricate detail within the Kambys collection.

Kambys

The very first timepiece of the Kambys collection will be donated to ONLY WATCH 2013. Timepiece with manual double barrel winding and a seven-day power reserve.That movement (290 components, 50 rubies) is a 100% in-house manufacture movement, created under the aegis of renowned, award-winng Swiss watchmaker Jean-Francois Mojon.

Catalogue description:

CYRUS “KA MBYS” FOR ONLY WATCH CYRUS Genève: KAMBYS, pièce unique. Fine and unique, 5 atm water resistant, titanium wristwatch with seconds animation displayed by three different length hands; power reserve indicated by three sliding barrels (patent); secret animation button activated by the crown at 9 o’clock, deployant clasp in titanium. Functions developed in collaboration with Jean-François Mojon, awarded best conceptor/developer at the “Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie de Genève,” Nov. 2010. Accompanied by fitted box and Certificate. Because CYRUS relies only on the intuition of its founders Because CYRUS does not try to be like others Because CYRUS has a unique history and simply because no great genius has ever existed without a touch of folly. This is how the KAMBYS collection was born. The very first timepiece of that new collection will be the one dedicated to ONLY WATCH 2013.

C. Patented shape perfectly suiting to the wrist, brushed/ polished/sandblasted titanium, sapphire crystals, see-through sapphire case back, CYRUS specific screws. D. SECONDS - Three hands (inclined by 8°) with three arms of different lengths to cover the three sectors of 120°. POWER RESERVE - Three barrels slide progressively, one after the other, along a vertical axis. The two smaller cylinders each represent two days of power reserve. The third barrel represents three days. With a simple press on the crown at the 9 O’clock position, the following events are displayed in the opening: piece unique, flagship of the Principality of Monaco and CYRUS GENEVE logo M. Manual winding (7 days power reserve, double barrel), manufacture movement (CAL 7778) developed in collaboration with awarded Swiss watchmaker Jean-François Mojon. “Exclusively developed for ONLY WATCH 2013” engraved on one barrel. “Côtes de Genève” finishes. FREQUENCY – 3Hz (21’600 vibrations par hour)

Estimate: 40,000 EUR - 45,000 EUR

<<< Post #10: Corum                     Post #12: De Bethune>>>

Post by Pawnbank.

Links to all the articles in our countdown can be found on the original post

Countdown to the ONLY WATCH Auction, 28th September, 2013. Post #10: Corum Ti-Bridge

<<<Post #9: Christophe Claret                Post #11: Cyrus>>>

Today we present the Ti-Bridge from Corum.

Corum

Corum was founded in 1955 in la Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, by Rene Bannwart and his uncle Gaston Ries. Since then the company has aimed at being positioned at the forefront of the Swiss watch industry. The emblem represents a "key pointing skywards" and "is a symbol of the mastery to be fathomed, the enigma to be resolved, of new territories to be explored, and of innovation. It also alludes to the inventiveness, tenacity and bold spirit required in order to attain total mastery of time".

The first Corum watches appeared in 1956 and were quickly recognised within the industry as being among the most creative around. A seemingly endless output of new ideas were met with great success. From those early days, Corum now has a reputation offering high quality, innovative and distinctive designs and sophisticated mechanical movements which make up the four main collections in their catalogue: The Admiral's Cup, Romvlvs, Corum Bridges and Artisans.

Corum has continues to demonstrate a strong passion for charity projects such as Only Watch and the Ellen MacArthur Foundation. Social conscience is further demonstrated by being the first luxury watch company to attain the certification of "Equal Salary" by implementing a fair wage policy which does not discriminate between male and female employees.

The Corum Artisan watch line is defined by beautiful dials depicting wild animals, exotic locales, or even historic scenes, all of them limited edition masterpieces of some of the very few craftsmen left who are familiar with the immensely time consuming techniques used in these watches.

The Corum Golden Bridge collection is unique in the watchmaking world. Its four sapphire sides offer an unrestricted view of the intricately detailed linear movement, which appears to be floating in mid-air, held only by the gold bridge that names this watch. The Corum Golden Bridge is offered in 18k gold or platinum, and is also available with delicate diamond work.

The following video showcases the intricacy of the Corum Ti-Bridge.

Corum

Ti-Bridge 3-Day Power Reserve

This unique piece offered in a two-tone titanium and red gold case features an engraving of Asclepius and his snake-entwined staff, the symbol of medicine - an allegory celebrating the work of the Monaco Association Against Muscular Dystrophy.

Corum, Ti-Bridge Power Reserve for Only Watch Corum, Ti-Bridge Power Reserve, Ref. B107/02206 - 107.211.04/0F61 0000 Fine and unique, titanium and 18k red gold tonneau-shaped wristwatch with hand-engraving and power reserve indication. Accompanied by a fitted box and certificate. Water-resistance 30 meters / 3 ATM. Frequency 4 Hz, 28’800 vph

C. Tonneau-shape, sides in 18k red gold with Artisanal hand engraving, crown in titanium, water resistant to 30m, screw-down caseback, sapphire crystals. D. Brass Charcoal grey, Minute-circle indexes transferred on the flange, red gold-coated CORUM logo applied on the dial, Applied 5N red gold-coated hour indexes. M. Cal. CO 107, 25 jewels, Bridges and plate in titanium, power reserve: 72 hours.

Estimate: 20,000 EUR - 30,000 EUR

<<<Post #9: Christophe Claret                Post #11: Cyrus>>>

Post by Pawnbank.

Links to all the articles in our countdown can be found on the original post