Thursday, 19 September 2013

Countdown to the ONLY WATCH Auction, 28th September, 2013. Post #26: Patek Philippe, Only Watch 2013 Special Reference 5004T



<<< Post #25: Montblanc                 Post #27: Piaget >>>

Today's post brings you the Only Watch 2013 Special Ref #5004T from Patek Philippe.

PATEK PHILIPPE

Geneva, 1839, Polish migrants Antoni Patek and Franciszek Czapek began making pocket watches. The team lasted until 1845 when Czapek went his own way. A year earlier, Patek was in Paris where he met Jean-Adrien Philppe who presented his pioneering keyless winding mechanism. In 1851, Philippe officially became associated with Patek & Co and the company was renamed Patek Philippe.

That year, the company began supplying watches to Queen Victoria and Prince Albert. Other clients included Christian IX and Princess Louise of Denmark, King Victor Emmanuel III of Italy and Sultan Hussein Kamel of Egypt among others. From its founding, Patek Philippe designed and manufactured a range of timepieces and movements that included some of the most complicated mechanical watches. It is widely considered the world's most prestigious watch brand by many experts and aficionados.

The company found great success in it's early years and in 1932, was purchased by two brothers, Charles and Jean Stern, co-owners of a dial manufacture in Geneva. Patek Philippe is now under the helm of president Theirry Stern who took over from his father, Philippe Stern who remains as honorary president. Now into the 4th generation, Patek Philippe S.A. remains a family owned company.

Patek Philippe: Birth of a Legend video:


Patek Philippe is notable to manufacturing their own watch components. Many companies will outsource various parts such as springs, cases, dials and the like. Like other manufactures they focus mostly on producing mechanical movements, automatic and manual. In the past the company has built quartz watches and, in 1958, a prototype digital wrist watch, the Ref. 3414.

When it comes to complications (functions),  Patek Philippe has held the record for putting the highest number of complications in a single watch. To celebrate the company's 150th anniversary in 1989 they created the commemorative pocket watch, the Calibre 89. Four versions were made, one each in white gold, yellow gold, rose gold and platinum. Slightly larger than a standard pocket watch, and weighing 1.1kg, it has 24 hands and is comprised of 1728 components. The Calibre 89 boasts 39 complications including the date of Easter, time of sunrise, equation of time, sidereal time, and many other indicators. It is also able to add a day to February for leap years while leaving out the extra day for every 100 year interval.


Short list of Complications (Features)

    Day of the month
    12-hour recorder
    Day of the week
    Hour of second time-zone
    Moon phase display
    Winding crown position indicator
    Century decade and year displays
    Leap Year Indicator
    Power reserve
    Month
    Thermometer
    Date of Easter
    Time of sunrise
    Equation of time
    Star chart displaying 2800 stars in relation to the Earth.
    Sun hand
    Time of sunset
    Split second hand

The videos below demonstrate several of the complications in this amazing timepiece.






Patek Philippe watches are highly regarded and often realise high prices at auction, usually appreciating in value over time. A pocket-watch with 24 complications that was produced for Henrry Graves Jr in 1933, and known as "The Supercomplication") was auctioned by Sotheby's in December of 1999 for a final price of US$11,000,000.

It was a Patek Philippe watch that reached $1.4 million at the last Only Watch auction in 2011. The highest price for any piece that year.






One of the great classics of the Patek Philippe Grand Complications collection between 1995 and 2011, Reference 5004 embodied the traditional, manually wound chronograph at its highest level. Its Calibre CHR 27-70Q is based on a "Nouvelle Lemania" movement, produced exclusively for Patek Philippe and completely reworked in the company's workshops, added with a sophisticated split-seconds mechanism and a very fine perpetual calendar. The movement comprises 407 parts, meticulously finished by hand according to the workshops' time-honoured methods.
This Only Watch 2013 special reference 5004T is the first and only version ever produced in titanium.




Catalogue Description:
PATEK PHILIPE REF. 5004 titanium Patek Philippe, Genève, Ref. 5004T. Fine and unique split-seconds chronograph wristwatch with 30-minute counter, perpetual calendar, moon phases, leap year and 24-hour indications. Accompanied by a fitted wooden box, Certificate of Origin, setting pin, hangtag and leather folio.
C. Three-body, solid, polished, sapphire crystal scew-down caseback, case band with 4 correctors, push button in the crown for the split-seconds function and 2 push-buttons to start (at 2) and stop (at 4) the chronograph. Concave bezel, fluted lugs, sapphire crystals. Case and prong buckle in titanium. Water-resistant. D. Solid gold dial plate. Black with hand-guilloché carbon pattern and gold applied Arabic numerals. Subsidiary dials: 30-minute counter and leap year at 3, days of the month at 6, seconds and 24 hours indication at 9, apertures for the days of the week, the months and the moon phases, outer 1/5th seconds track. White gold leaf-shaped hands. M. Cal. CHR 27-70 PS Q, stamped with the Geneva Seal quality hallmark, rhodium-plated, Geneva striping decoration, 28 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, Gyromax® balance, shock absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance spring.
Estimate: 400,000 EUR - 600,000 EUR

<<< Post #25: Montblanc                 Post #27: Piaget >>>






Links to all the articles in our countdown can be found on the original post


Tuesday, 17 September 2013

Countdown to the ONLY WATCH Auction, 28th September, 2013. Post #25: Montblanc, Nicolas Rieussec Rising Hours for Monaco



Today we present Montblanc's Nicolas Rieussec Rising Hours for Monaco

MONTBLANC

Montblanc began in Hamburg as the Simplo Filler Pen Comanpany in 1906, following it founding by Claus-Johannes Voss, Alfred Nehemias and August Eberstein. Producing up-market pens, the first model, the Rouge et  Noir, was released in 1909 followed in 1910 by the pen that was later to give the company its new name, Montblanc.

The "White Star" trademark logo first appeared in 1913. It is a white, stylised six-pointed star with rounded edges that represents the snowcap of the Mont Blanc from above. The number "4810" is also frequently seen in model numbers and other uses, and refers to the height of Mont Blanc in metres.

 The company makes several models of pens with the top of the line Meisterstück, first appearing in 1924, being something of a flagship. The Montblanc Writers Editions commemorate the life and work of a particular writer and new models in this series are released each year. These pens usually bare an engraving of the writers signature on the cap and a symbol of their most important work engraved onto the nibs. The company also produce limited edition pieces with releases of 888 or 4810 being common numbers. Limited edition pens are often adorned with gemstones such as rubies and diamonds and 18ct gold. For some issues, the White Star has been fashioned out of mother-of-pearl.

The Montblanc brand is on other goods besides pens, including watches, jewellery, fragrances, leather goods and eyewear.

The company was acquired by Dunhill in 1977, following which lower price pens were dropped and the brand was used on a wide range of luxury goods other than pens.

Today, Montblanc forms part of the Richemont group, one of the largest luxury goods companies in the world which also owns;

Alfred Dunhill Limited.
Baume & Mercier SA
Cartier
Chloé International
IWC International Watch Co. AG
Lancel Sogedi
Lange Uhren GmbH
Jaeger-LeCoultre SA
Officine Panerai
Piaget SA
Vacheron Constantin SA
Van Cleef & Arpels SA


NTBLANC: The Fortune Number 88 Limited Edition Skeleton Fountain Pen
Solid 18K rose gold lattice of interlocking 8s over translucent precious resin. Eight rings circle the cap and cone, and the clip is decorated with a diamond-studded 8. Medium 18K red gold nib engraved with yin-yang symbol. Outer box, inner box, display box, papers. Limited Edition: 59/88.
Price realised: US$23,750

MONTBLANC- The Fortune Number 88 Limited Edition Skeleton Fountain Pen
MONTBLANC- The Fortune Number 88 Limited Edition Skeleton Fountain Pen
- See more at: http://www.pawnbank.com.au/fine-writing-instruments-auction-at-bonhams/#sthash.ggDv1bck.dpuf
ONTBLANC: The Fortune Number 88 Limited Edition Skeleton Fountain Pen - See more at: http://www.pawnbank.com.au/fine-writing-instruments-auction-at-bonhams/#sthash.ggDv1bck.dpuf
We featured Mont Blanc in a post that covered the Fine Writing Instruments Auction at Bonham's, San Fransisco in December of last year.
MONTBLANC: The Fortune Number 88 Limited Edition Skeleton Fountain Pen
Solid 18K rose gold lattice of interlocking 8s over translucent precious resin. Eight rings circle the cap and cone, and the clip is decorated with a diamond-studded 8. Medium 18K red gold nib engraved with yin-yang symbol. Outer box, inner box, display box, papers. Limited Edition: 59/88.
Price realised: US$23,750

MONTBLANC- The Fortune Number 88 Limited Edition Skeleton Fountain Pen
MONTBLANC- The Fortune Number 88 Limited Edition Skeleton Fountain Pen
- See more at: http://www.pawnbank.com.au/fine-writing-instruments-auction-at-bonhams/#sthash.ggDv1bck.dpuf

MONTBLANC: The Fortune Number 88 Limited Edition Skeleton Fountain Pen
Solid 18K rose gold lattice of interlocking 8s over translucent precious resin. Eight rings circle the cap and cone, and the clip is decorated with a diamond-studded 8. Medium 18K red gold nib engraved with yin-yang symbol. Outer box, inner box, display box, papers. Limited Edition: 59/88.
Price realised: US$23,750
- See more at: http://www.pawnbank.com.au/fine-writing-instruments-auction-at-bonhams/#sthash.ggDv1bck.dpuf


MONTBLANC- The Fortune Number 88 Limited Edition Skeleton Fountain Pen
Montblanc Fortune Number 88 Limited Edition Skeleton Fountain Pen, US$23,750 at Bonham's Auction, December 2012




The video below features the Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec Rising Hours, upon which, this years donation to Only Watch is based. It features a fascinating hour display.





The Rising Hours watches from Montblanc are dedicated to Nicolas Mathieu Rieussec (July 20, 1781 – June 18, 1866), French watchmaker and inventor of the chronograph, a major leap forward in timekeeping.

Early in his career, Rieussec had endeavoured to make a name for himself and the young watchmaker began to gain recognition when he was named a Watchmaker to King Louis XVIII in a royal warrant dated January 31, 1817:
“On this thirty-first day of January, eighteen hundred and seventeen, the King at Paris, having been made fully aware of the good life and moral conduct of Sieur Nicolas Mathieu Rieussec, and of the distinguished reputation he has acquired in his profession of Watchmaker, desires to confer upon him a mark of his favour and of the protection with which he honours him; for this purpose, His Majesty has granted and does grant him the title of his Watchmaker so that said Sieur Rieussec can enjoy all the honours, prerogatives and other benefits thereunto appertaining; His Majesty desires and intends that he may use said Title at all gatherings and on all public documents...”
 In France during the early 1800's, horse-racing had gathered a great momentum  as a popular sport and social gathering. Rieussec saw the need for a method of timing the horses. It was one thing to see who won, it was another thing entirely to be able to tell by exactly how much. On the 1st September 1821, he attended the Arrondissement de la Seine race at the Champs-de-Mars with the intention of testing his new device, managing to record the time of the winner and those who followed.

Just over a month later, on 15 October, 1821, the French Academy of Sciences made a report on Rieussec's invention. The chronograph had been examined by two members of the academy, mathematician and engineer, Gaspard de Prony and, the one-and-only Alexandre-Louis Breguet, founder of the influential company, Breguet, and no stranger to owning patents.

Featured in the Academy's minutes of the meeting is a report which provides what is among the most comprehensive descriptions of the chronograph and its operation:

The volume and shape of this instrument are about those of a large pocket chronometer. The dial is movable and turns about an axis that is perpendicular to its plane and passes through its centre. When the Chronograph is operating, this dial makes one revolution per minute, and since its circumference is divided into 60 parts, the angular motion of one division corresponds to one second. A small window next to the hanging ring reveals a number, which is replaced by another number with each revolution of the dial and indicates the minutes; the Chronograph can run about three-quarters of an hour without stopping. To use this instrument, when it is mounted and in a resting state, one first sets the divisions marking the time to the starting points by turning a knurled knob with one’s hand. Through the intermediary of a gear train, the knob causes the minute and second dials to move. Having done this, when the moment to start timing arrives, one presses a small button next to the knob to set the machine in motion. The observer can give full attention to the phenomena whose successive time intervals he wishes to measure, and as soon as one of the divisions of these intervals is reached, he presses a second button next to the one we have just mentioned. At the moment when it is pressed a small pen, or metal point, passing through the open tip of a cone filled with black oil ink and placed opposite the moving dial’s fixed zero point, marks a point on the circumference that is divided into seconds. This point then indicates the second and fraction of a second corresponding to the beginning or end of the period of time being measured. Operation of the pen trigger mechanism neither stops nor slows the moving dial’s motion, so the button can be pressed several times while this motion lasts, making a number of black points on the scale divided into 60 parts; each point indicates, by its position, the moment when it was marked. To stop the chronograph quickly, one need only press the button that started it. The mechanism is arranged such that pressing this button abruptly changes the current state of the machine, making it pass from a resting state to movement or from movement to its resting state. We did not examine the inside of the instrument, and we do not think that it offers anything particularly remarkable, given the current state of watchmaking. Its principal merit lies in its ability to instantly indicate the first and last moments of several successive time intervals by means of permanent, visible signs on a moving dial, without requiring the attention of the observer’s eyes or ears. A chronograph with such a property unquestionably offers precious resources to physicians, engineers and, in general, anyone who measures phenomena. A highly satisfactory trial was recently made at public horse races; but its use can obviously extend to an infinite variety of other kinds of observations, the testing of moving machines, gauging of running water, and almost all hydraulic operations. The passage of a star over the cross-hairs of a telescope, when the astronomer has only one free hand, will be very precisely indicated by this new means, which will either serve to verify the count of the seconds on a clock, or will replace such a count if the distant location of the clock or poor hearing keeps the escapement from being heard. We think that Mr. Rieussec’s Chronograph deserves the Academy’s approval.






Montblanc has designed and developed a unique watch in its Manufacture in Locle, the Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec Rising Hours for Monaco. Alliance of red gold and steel with Dual Carbon treatment, it displays the hours on a turning disc that has been augmented with the appealing complication of a day/night indication in the hour display.



Catalogue Description:
Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec Rising Hours for Monaco A fine and unique self-winding monopusher chronograph with hours on a turning disc and day/night indication in the hour display. Red gold and steel with Dual Carbon treatment case. Accompanied by a special box and certificate.
C. Stainless steel with dual carbon treatment Crown, pushers and screws of the case back in 18K red gold (5N) Domed sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective coating Screwed case back with transparent sapphire crystal M. Montblanc Manufacture Calibre MB R220. Mechanical movement with automatic winding mechanism and twin barrels (343 components and 42 jewels) Chronograph Monopusher with column-wheel control and vertical disc clutch power reserve 72 hours Balance Screw balance Ø 9,70 mm ; Moment of inertia: 12 mgcm² Frequency 28'800 bph (4 Hz) Hairspring Flat Plate Rhodium plated and circular grained Bridges Rhodium-plated, Geneva stripes Gear train Special toothing for more efficient power transmission Indications Hours and minutes on off-center dial/Digital hour display with integrated day/ Night indication/Day by disc /Date by disc Chronograph Chronograph tallies 60 elapsed seconds and 30 elapsed minutes on rotating discs with motionless hands
Estimate: 15,000 EUR - 20,000 EUR

<<< Post #24: Maurice Lacroix                   Post #26: Patek Philippe >>>







Links to all the articles in our countdown can be found on the original post

Monday, 16 September 2013

Countdown to the ONLY WATCH Auction, 28th September, 2013. Post #24: Maurice Lacroix, Masterpiece Seconde Mystérieuse Only Watch

<<< Post #23: Louis Vuitton                         Post #25: Montblanc >>>


Today's timepiece is the Masterpiece Seconde Mystérieuse Only Watch, from Maurice Lacroix.


MAURICE LACROIX

Maurice Lacroix begins it's history in 1961 when Zurich-based Desco von Schulthess AG (founded 1889) acquired an assembly facility named Tiara in Saignelégier, a town in the Canton of Jura. From there, it produced private label watches for third parties. Desco had represented luxury watch brands such as Audemars Piguet, Heuer, Eterna and Jaeger-LeCoultre since 1946. In 1975 the first watch bearing the Maurice Lacroix name appeared and by 1980 the name had become so successful that they ceased production for third parties and focused on being able to produce timepieces completely in house.

In 2001 Maurice Lacroix S.A., once a division of Desco von Schulthess AG, became an independent company, one of only a few independent Swiss watchmakers, and has since become one of the most successful brands.

The manufacture significantly invests in maintaining state-of-the-art facilities allowing the brand to introduce new movements and keep up with rapid growth and change while staying true to it's love of design, perfection and fine materials.

The first completely in-house movement was released in 2006, the "Masterpiece Le Chronographe"


Video showing the incredible Masterpiece Seconde Mystérieuse
Continuing in the rich vein of avant-garde creative freedom, the Swiss-based brand is pleased to present its Masterpiece Seconde Mystérieuse watch. This marks a new first in the history of watchmaking.

Awe-inspiring Captivating Unexpected This timepiece is aptly named: Mystérieuse (Mysterious) inspires and intrigues. Its certainly hard to take your eyes away from the gray disk dominating the skeletonized inner workings of the movement. Numerous elements testify to Maurice Lacroix's supreme know-how, whether it be the impressive seconds indication and the skeletonization, or the off-centered hours that are one of the brand's trademark features. Yet the perplexing seconds indicator remains the most captivating of mysteries. Driven by the ML215 caliber -- a new Maurice Lacroix Manufacture movement and the twelfth to be entirely developed in-house -- the mysterious hand marks out a linear reading of the seconds, in alternating horizontal anf vertica 15-second cycles. The blued hand turning on its axis, as though in full levitation, produces the captivating optical illusion. The mechanical mystery behind this impressive feat remains unsolved.

The hours are displayed at 2 o'clock and are also indicated by metallic blued hands, while the rest of the dial is skeletonized around the movement bridges, in a striking geometrical style that is very contemporary and available in two versions, coated in either rhodium or ruthenium. The self-winding ML215 mechanical movement is visible through the sapphire-crystal back of the 43 mm diameter steel case. Its finishing automatically places it in an exclusive category of timepieces offered only by the very finest workmanships.

The Masterpiece Seconde Mystérieuse is available in two limited series of 125 pieces each.




Masterpiece Seconde Mysterieuse Only Watch




Catalogue Description:
Maurice Lacroix, Masterpiece Seconde Mysterieuse, Piece Unique for Only Watch 1/1 A fine and unique self-winding, ADLC coated wristwatch with mysterious seconds. Accompanied by a fitted box and Certificate. Frequency 18,000 vibrations per hour, 2.5 Hz. Power reserve 50 hours 48 Jewels. Adjustments in 5 positions after full winding and in 2 positions after 24 hours. Decoration mainplate, bridges and rotor sand-blasted and coated with black ADLC finish, Bridges featuring diamond-polished edges and engraved ML logo.
C. Stainless steel, sand-blasted case, bezel and crown with ADLC finish, domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, screw-in case-back with wide sapphire crystal revealing the ADLC-treated rotor engraved with inscription ONLY WATCH 2013 – PIÈCE UNIQUE 1/1”, water-resistant to 50 m (5 atm). D. Sand-blasted sides framing an openworked dial revealing glimpses of the movement, engraved off-centred, numeral-free hours and minutes dial, “Mysterious” black seconds disc, light grey and black indications, faceted black gold-toned hours and minutes hands, faceted black gold-toned seconds hand with black/grey-coated tips, standard steel buckle with ADLC coating. M.Mechanical automatic Manufacture movement, Calibre ML 215, hours and minutes indicated by off-centred hands at 2 O’clock, “Mysterious” seconds display at 6 O’clock
Estimate: 15,000 EUR - 20,000 EUR

<<< Post #23: Louis Vuitton                         Post #25: Montblanc >>>




Links to all the articles in our countdown can be found on the original post



Sunday, 15 September 2013

Countdown to the ONLY WATCH Auction, 28th September, 2013. Post #23: Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Regatta




Today we present the Tambour Spin Time Regatta from Louis Vuitton.


LOUIS VUITTON


The beginning of the French fashion house, long regarded as the worlds most valuable luxury brand, began with its founding in 1854 by Louis Vuitton.

Vuitton had seen a way to make luggage more practical. It was a time when ships and trains were making the world a much smaller place and the brand introduced a flat bottomed trunnk made of light weight trianon canvas which were airtight and also easy to stack. The design caught on quickly and by 1867, following the participation in the Paris universal exhibition, Louis Vuitton found it necessary to protect his trademark from imitators. The now famous beige and brown striped design appeared in 1876 and in 1888, three years after the opening of the first London store on Oxford St, Vuitton created the Damier Canvas patter which bore a logo that reads "marque L. Vuitton déposée", a registered trademark.

Louis Vuitton died in 1892, passing the company's management onto his son, Georges Vuitton. He began a campaign to build the company into a worldwide corporation, exhibiting the company's products at the Chicago World's Fair in 1893. In 1896, the company launched the signature Monogram Canvas and protected the design with worldwide patents. 1901 saw the release of the Steamer Bag, designed to fit inside the luggage trunks.

The company opened what was, at the time, the largest travel-goods store in the world. The Louis Vuitton Building on the Champs-Elysees. Within a few short years, boutique stores had been opened in New York, Bombay, Washington, London, Alexandria and Buenos Aires. Georges Vuitton died in 1936 and control passed to his son, Gaston-Louis Vuitton.

 In 1977 the company merged with Moët et Chandon and Hennessy creating the LVMH, a luxury goods conglomerate which now owns more than 60 companies including well known wine, spirits, fashion, perfumes and cosmetics, watches and jewellery and selective retailer brands - Louis Vuitton, Moët & Chandon, Hennessey, Hublot, Tag Heuer, Zenith, Bvlgari, De Beers, Fendi, Mercier, Givenchy, Christian Dior, Donna Karan, Marc Jacobs, DFS Galleria, Emilio Pucci, Ruinart, Glenmorangie, Guerlain, Loewe and Dom Perignon among others.


Louis Vuitton continues to produce luxury luggage and over the years have added leather good, shoes, jewellery, sunglasses, books, accessories and, in 2002, added the Tambour watch collection.

As with many other luxury brands, counterfeit merchandise is a very significant problem and has been plaguing the brand for over 150 years. As it one of the most heavily counterfeited brands it is an issue that is taken very seriously. Directly employed by the company are a specialised team of lawyers and investigators pursuing offenders throughout the world. A statement from parent company, LMVH, states that "Some 60 people at various levels of responsibility working full-time on anti-counterfeiting in collaboration with a wide network of outside investigators and a team of lawyers." Authentic Louis Vuitton merchandise is strictly distributed to over 130 brand owned boutiques, from Tokyo to Marrakech, New York to Melbourne, and a small number of select luxury department stores. Recently, an online store has begun operating through the main website.

In a 2012 Bloomberg article, the brand was valued at US$25.9 billion dollars and for six consecutive years (2006–2012) Louis Vuitton has been named the world's most valuable luxury brand.

The video below features the LV Tambour Spin Time Regatta, upon which this years entry for Only Watch is based.






Blue sunray effect dial set with 18ct gold applied indexes and numerals and with a hand-engraved 18ct gold boat, designed by Paul Pettavino (sail and flag are made of 18ct white gold hand covered with white enamel with a blue and red LV logo, Hull made of pink gold hand painted with Paul's name in red.) Unique piece.




Catalogue Description:
LOUIS VUITTON TA MBOUR Spin Time Regatta for "ONLY WATCH 2013 1/1" A fine and unique 18K pink gold self-winding chronograph wristwatch with 5-minute regatta countdown and personalized dial design by Paul Pettavino. Accompanied by custom Louis Vuitton trunk and Certificate.
C. 18K pink gold, crown and push buttons at 2 and 4 O’clock over molded with rubber, sapphire crystal, caseback engraved with Monogram pattern and specific mention "ONLY WATCH 2013 1/1." D. Blue sunray effect dial set with 18K gold applied indexes and numerals and with a hand-engraved 18K gold boat, designed by Paul Pettavino (sail & flag are made of 18K white gold hand covered with white enamel with a blue and red LV logo, Hull made of pink gold hand painted with Paul’s name in red), 18K pink gold hours and minutes hands. Red chronograph hours and minutes hands, ONLY WATCH printed in red, between 12:00 and 2:00 on the flange. M. LV156, 35 jewels, Automatic Manufacture Calibre developed and assembled in-house at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, 12-hour chronograph, 5-minute regatta countdown indicated by the 5 rotating cubes, number of components: 360, power reserve: 48 hours, oscillations: 28 800 per hour.
Estimate: 60,000 EUR - 80,000 EUR

<<< Post #22: Laurent Ferrier                       Post #24: Maurice Lacroix >>>




Links to all the articles in our countdown can be found on the original post


Friday, 13 September 2013

Countdown to the ONLY WATCH Auction, 28th September, 2013. Post #22: Laurent Ferrier: Galet Classic Only Watch


<<< Post #21: Julien Coudray 1518                  Post #23: Louis Vuitton >>>

Today we feature Laurent Ferrier and the Galet Classic Only Watch.



LAURENT FERRIER
Laurent Ferrier was born in 1946 in Neuchâtel, in the same village as Abraham-Louis Breguet. He studied and graduated in watchmaking in the 1960's finding opportunity to hone his skills at Patek Phillipe. Following a brief stint racing cars, including seven Le Mans 24 Hour, he returned to Patek Philippe in 1974. This time, however he was tasked with creating new timepieces.
Within the industry, Laurent, has become affectionately referred to as "the grandpa of watchmaking". This is due in part to the fact that he waited until he was 63 to found his own company in 2008. In this endeavour he has been assisted by his son Christian, friend François Servanin and partnership with La Fabrique du Temps. Their first goal was to create an exclusive movement: the double spiral tourbillon. A mixture of modern technology and traditional codes, Laurent Ferrier's movement compensates for the effects of gravity and laid  the foundations for his collections, including the Galet Classic double spiral tourbillon.
Laurent Ferrier offers alternatives to all devotees of classic mechanical watchmaking. The brand develops movements crafted in harmony with the finest traditions, while enriching them with high-performing and genuinely innovative technical attributes. Designed for devotees of pure values, it revives and updates horological fundamentals – a renewal of origins that positions Laurent Ferrier as a well-respected member of the exclusive circle of mechanical Haute Horlogerie.




Video showcasing the eLaurent Ferrier the Galet Secret Double Balance-Spring Tourbillon - Unique Meissen Edition 






The Galet Classic Only Watch by Laurent Ferrier is a one-of-a-kind steel model housing a chronometer-certified tourbillon calbre with a double balance-spring, and featuring a grand feu enamel dial depicting a dial as well as the Monaco coat-of-arms.


Catalogue Description:
Laurent Ferrier, Galet Classic Tourbillon Double Spirale for Only Watch Laurent Ferrier, Genève, Galet Classic and Tourbillon Double Spirale, No. 000 Fine and unique, water resistant, stainless steel tourbillon wristwatch with grand feu enamel dial and a stainless steel Laurent Ferrier buckle. Accompanied by fitted box and Certificate. Frequency 3Hz (21,600 vibrations/hour). power reserve 100 hours. Dial, case and movement signed.
C. Three-body, polished, concave lugs, curved bezel, large receded crown, transparent back, sapphire crystals. D. Brown grand feu enamel with a dove, subsidiary seconds. White gold assegai hands. M. Calibre LF 619.01, 23 jewels, manual winding mechanical movement.
Estimate: 100,000 EUR - 120,000 EUR

<<< Post #21: Julien Coudray 1518                  Post #23: Louis Vuitton >>>




Links to all the articles in our countdown can be found on the original post

Thursday, 12 September 2013

Countdown to the ONLY WATCH Auction, 28th September, 2013. Post #21: Julien Coudray 1518: Draw Me A Happy Child




Today we are pleased to present Julien Coudray 1518's "Draw Me A Happy Child"

JULIEN COUDRAY 1518

Fabien Lamarche has a passionate interest in watchmaking, antique timepieces, robotics and micromechanical engineering. He began his career as a process manager for Breguet followed by the role of product manager at Roger Dubuis. From there he moved to L. Leroy and finally Zenith where he went from methods and industrial director and then as head of the mechanical and prototype department. In 2007 he set up his own manufacture, bringing together some forty artisans of traditional and contemporary watchmaking. In 2012 he established Julien Coudray 1518.

According to Fabien, the decision to start his own watch brand came when he began working at Breguet, becoming fascinated by the beauty of watches. When the time came create the brand, it was decided that there would be an emphasis on design, art and a tribute to the Renaissance, a time of extraordinary creativity and a rebirth of artistic expression. The most effective way to achieve creative freedom while expressing a dedicated passion for sixteenth-century watchmaking was by assembling a team of experts in enamelling, burnishing, engraving, miniature painting and of course, watchmaking.

Naming a Swiss brand after a French watchmaker may seem somewhat out of the ordinary but the name, Julien Courdray, invoked the Renaissance appeal that Lamarche was looking for.


Julien Courdray is one of the earliest known watchmakers in history. His exact date of birth is unclear but experts place it somewhere between 1450 and 1470. Courdray has been credited with making the first moving spere, a kind of astronomical clock with a special mechanism tracking the course of the stars and their passage through the different zodiac signs. It is known that he served as horologer to the French court under the reigns of Louis XII and Francois I. According to historical sources, he is considered the inventor of the portable watch in 1518 (hence the name, Julien Courdray 1518) in the shape of spring-based movements inserted at the request of François I into the pommel of two of his daggers. These are regarded as being the first portable movements and the smallest moving clockwork mechanisms of the time.

During his time at court, particularly during the reign of Francois I, he was able to rub shoulders with the likes of Leonardo da Vinci who was present from 1515 until his death in 1519. Francois I enriched his court with respected thinkers and artists from France and Italy. Art, literature and science were all represented by brilliant and inventive minds, brought together to embody the vision of a forward thinking ruler. 

Courdray died in 1530, after paving the way for modern watchmaking, and almost 500 years later, Fabien Lamrche saw him as a symbol of an ancestral tradition and an icon of the style and imagery of the Renaissance.

The Julien Courdray 1518 manufacture is highly selective in its distribution and limits the number of pieces it creates each year. In 2012, they created and sold 15 watches. This year they are aiming for 50. Lamarche states the brand is not seeking to industrialise of automate production and do not wish to exceed 300 watches per year. 

Everything is developed and produced in-house, from the technical department through to finishing and from screws to the exclusive Julien Coudray wheels with special-shaped spokes. The set of tungsten carbide tools required for each model is developed on-site, including for example hundreds of milling cutters for each component. The Julien Coudray unit encapsulates the quintessence of this perfectionist quest. Enameling a 1 mm thick part is no pipedream here. Devoting three days to the bridge of a tourbillon carriage, or ten operations to a single dial hour-markers, are all part of a day’s job. Cutting millimeter-thick parts on historical machines improved by in-house developed and more modern technologies is all part of a contagious enthusiasm shared by each department. Sculpting an oscillating weight shaped like the crossed daggers of François 1 of France on a fleur de lys is a natural expression of the magical atmosphere pervading these premises. Fabien Lamarche is everywhere at once, serving as both the driving force and a link in the chain – such as by applying the laser weldings in gold wire in the same colour as the dial, or designing patented hands sweeping across the grand feu enamel dial, or an also patented folding clasp.  Thus for the Humanoid Face Collection, Fabien Lamarche drew the sketch for this “face” some years ago, imagining a way to sculpt a dial from solid gold and grand feu enamel. Now he sees it as an interpretation of the marks left by time on the faces of the world.

From conception through to hand decoration, from cutting to thermal treatment, from traditional grand feu enamelling through to miniature painting, along with crafting the watch hands and assembling the components, a total of over 40 people representing as many professions, pool their talents in designing, producing and assembling the brand’s entire range of watches and movements. Working with precious metals such as solid gold and platinum, the brand specialises in developing hand-made in-house timepieces performed assembled part by part, component by component.








At the request of several clients with sophisticated demands, Julien Coudray devotes its concentrated blend of expertise to creating some particularly accomplished models. This desire to share is expressed with extraordinary generosity, since Fabien Lamarche has designed for Only Watch a one-of-a-kind model on the theme “Draw me a happy child”. Created from one kilo of Pd125 18K gold, a gesture that represents a significant commitment for a youthful brand such as Julien Coudray 1518, this exceptional creation is intended for the Only Watch auction taking place during the Monaco Yacht Show in support of the Monaco Association against Muscular Dystrophy.


As its name indicates, this unique piece draws its inspiration from the interpretation of the theme "Draw me a happy child" by a 5-year old schoolchild, from the "Diablotins"  nursery school in Le Locle, Switzerland.
The movement of this unique piece is hand-engraved and enamelled according to the drawing chosen from a drawing competition.



From 20 pictures drawn by the children of the "Diablotins"  nursery school in Le Locle, Switzerland, only one could be chosen to adorn this creation by Julien Coudray 1518. The children, aged between 4 and 6, were given a special tour of the Julien Coudray 1518 facilities on the 8th of July this year. They spent the day fascinated by the different workshops and watching the manufactures artists at work. Whenever they would enter a new atelier they wanted to grab the 'binoculaire' and examine the fine chamfering or to polish the intricate parts. Upon seeing their classmates work in fine detail of the barrel bridge of the watch, one of them exclaimed "I see! It is red, and then orange". Head of communications for the brand stated that "they are the youngest apprentices we have had". Of course, growing up in this part of the world where the local, daily paper, "L 'Impartial" contains a section dedicated to horlogerie, it's no wonder that they are so enthralled by the goings on inside a watch manufacture such as Julien Coudray 1518.


In support of the Monaco Association Against Myopathy, Julien Coudray 1518 will approach children from other countries in the same way, to create other unique pieces on the same theme. It will be interesting to see what other designs come out of this endeavour and when news becomes known, there will be a future blog post either here, or on the Pawnbank blog. Whichever it is, Facebook and Twitter will broadcast it's posting.


"Draw Me A Happy Child" by the Children of the World


A unique piece that draws its inspiration from the interpretation of the theme "Draw Me A Happy Child"by a 5-year old schoolchild in Switzerland, in the Le Locle district. 95% of the watch is made from one kilogram of solid 18ct Pd125 white gold: movement, dial, case, crown and buckle.




Catalogue Description:
Julien Coudray 1518 MANUFA CTURA 1528 MASTERPIECE for Only Watch Julien Coudray 1518, Manufactura 1528 Masterpiece, "Draw Me a Happy Child" collection by The Children of the World. A fine and unique, 18k white gold wristwatch with center-seconds, enamel dial and service indicator. Accompanied by a fitted box and Certificate.
C. Made from solid 18k Pd125 white gold 39mm/9.85mm, sapphire crystal and caseback with anti-reflection coating, solid 18k Pd125 white gold collar. D. 13-part dial made from enameled solid 18k Pd125 white gold, traditional « grand feu » black and white enameled domed cartouches, dial center made from hand-engraved (guilloché) 18k solid white gold and transparent blue enamel. Blued hands. M. Mechanical movement made from solid 18k Pd125 white gold, manual winding, hand-engraved and hand-decorated, enameled 18k gold service indicator, power reserve of more than 55 hours, 34 jewels. A movement hand-engraved and enameled according to a drawing chosen from a drawing competition at a nursery school in Le Locle, Switzerland.
Estimate: 55,000 EUR - 80,000 EUR






Links to all the articles in our countdown can be found on the original post

Tuesday, 10 September 2013

Countdown to the ONLY WATCH Auction, 28th September, 2013. Post #20: Jaquet Droz- The Loving Butterfly

<<< Post #19: Ikepod                     Post #21: Julien Coudray 1518 >>>

Today we are pleased to present the "Loving Butterfly" from Jaquet Droz, a name with an extensive and fascinating history.

JAQUET DROZ


Pierre Jaquet-Droz lived from (1721-1790). Swiss-born, he lived in Paris, London and Geneva. He designed and built animated dolls, or automata, as a unique way to help his company sell watches and mechanical birds. His first workshop was situated in La Chaux de Fonds and was opened in 1738 when he was just seventeen years old. Far ahead of his time, Jaquet-Droz, realised the importance of branding and each movement bore a clover leaf engraving and two stars as a symbol of authenticity.

His genius was rooted not only in watchmaking but in his focus on  automata and his approach to marketing. There were many watchmakers at this point in time but very few pushing the boundaries of mechanics. He saw his creations as a way to become noticed by the royal courts of Europe. Automata can be considered the predecessors of what we now call robots and many principles of the modern computer stem from these fantastical designs. Charles Babbage is generally credited as being the "father of the computer". Truly a genius in his own right, yet he was born the year following Jaquet-Droz's death.

The video below is an excerpt from the BBC programme "Mechanical Marvels: Clockwork Dreams" Professor Simon Schaffer examines "The Writer", a clockwork creation of Pierre Jaquet-Droz. To put a little perspective on this amazing creation: it was constructed in 1774, the year that explorer Matthew Flinders was born and Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart celebrated his 18th birthday and wrote his 'Symphony No. 29 in A major'. It was four years after Captain Cook 'discovered' the East coast of Australia and four years before the First Fleet arrived in Botany Bay and was also two years prior to the United States signing the Declaration of Independence!




The Writer (see video above) has an input device to set tabs that form a programmable memory, 40 cams that represents the read only program, and a quill pen for output. He is able to write any custom text up to 40 letters long. The text is coded on a wheel where characters are selected one by one. He uses a goose feather to write, which he inks from time to time, including a shake of the wrist to prevent ink from spilling. His eyes follow the text being written, and the head moves when he takes some ink.

As his creations began to gain attention, his foresight proved correct and Droz became well known as his astonishing mechanisms fascinated the world's most important people: the kings and emperors of Europe, China, India and Japan.
He even set up a joint venture from his London workshop, with one of the very few trading companies that was already conducting business with the Forbidden City. To this day, that bond still exists with China.

The automata of Jaquet-Droz are also considered to be some of the finest examples of human mechanical problem solving. Three particularly complex, and still working and functional dolls are housed at the art and history museum in Neuchâtel, Switzerland, now known as the Jaquet-Droz automata. Alongside The Writer (made of 6000 pieces), the other two are The Musician (2500 pieces) and The Draughtsman (2000 pieces) all of which were created between 1768 and 1774.

An article mentioning a particular work of Jaquet-Droz appeared in the 29 September 1827 edition of The Mirror of Literature, Amusement, and, Instruction



THE MIRROR
OF
LITERATURE, AMUSEMENT, AND INSTRUCTION.


VOL. X, NO. 275.] SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 29, 1827. [PRICE 2d.

MAGICAL CLOCK.
Droz, a Genevian mechanic, once constructed a clock which was capable of the following surprising movements:—There were seen on it a negro, a dog, and a shepherd; when the clock struck, the shepherd played six tunes on his flute, and the dog approached and fawned upon him. This clock was exhibited to the King of Spain, who was delighted with it. "The gentleness of my dog," said Droz, "is his least merit; if your Majesty touch one of the apples, which you see in the shepherd's basket, you will admire the fidelity of this animal." The King took an apple, and the dog flew at his hand, and barked so loud, that the King's dog, which was in the room, began also to bark; at this the Courtiers, not doubting that it was an affair of witchcraft, hastily left the room, crossing themselves as they went out. The minister of Marine was the only one that ventured to stay. The king having desired him to ask the negro what o'clock it was, the minister obeyed, but he obtained no reply. Droz then observed, that the negro had not yet learned Spanish.
__________________________________________________________________________________


Not surprisingly, the name Droz became highly sought after among the wealthy. Jaquet Droz travelled the world and was happily invited by the reigning forces of the earth to work his magic, selling watches, both jeweled and classical, in the slipstream. While his automata were an incredible feat of mechanical engineering, they were essentially a marketing tool for his branded watches which, going by the pocket watch from 1785 pictured below, seemed quite capable of standing on their own reputation.
Jaquet Droz pocket watch, 1785


Pierre Jaquet-Droz died in 1790, leaving his legacy to his son. Sadly, he too died one year later in 1791 and the company all but disappeared. While there was still activity into the late 20th century, at this point, we shall move forward to the 21st century.


In 2001, the Jaquet Droz brand was acquired by mega corporation, the Swatch Group. Manuel Emch took the helm as CEO and set the direction that the new incarnation of Jaquet Droz would take. The brand realised impressive success, particularly in Asia, and the focus was set on the face of the watch always being the centre of attention, utilising many different materials, such as petrified wood, stone and rare minerals to create visual aesthetics. Superb finishing, intricate movements and complications are to be expected from any Jaquet Droz timepiece.

After setting the direction, Manuel Emch departed in 2009, handing the reins to Nicolas Hayek, co-founder, CEO and Chairman of the Board of the Swatch Group and its many brands including Swatch, Blancpain, Omega, Longines, Rado, Tissot, Calvin Klein, Breguet, Certina, Mido, Hamilton, Pierre Balmain and Lanco. Sadly, Nicolas Hayek died that year and the responsibility passed to his grandson, Marc Hayek who had already been the CEO of Blancpain and Breguet for many years. Thus, the Swatch Groups three most prestigious brands were brought together under one man. As with Blancpain and Breguet (both mentioned previously in our Countdown to Only Watch), Jaquet Droz only appears to be gathering more momentum and only time will tell where the master artisans will takes this highly respected brand.


Many of our Facebook fans will remember this video from earlier in the year, shared from the Jaquet Droz Facebook page. I received a lot of comments about just how amazing this piece is. The Jaquet Droz Minute Repeater Bird Automaton.





The "Loving Butterfly" combines the best know-how of the craftsmen from Jaquet Droz: Sculpture, engraving and miniature painting on a "grand feu" enamel dial give this exceptional timepiece an amazing presence and recalls the enchantment of the Age of Enlightenment.


From the Jaquet Droz website
For nearly three centuries, Jaquet Droz set time under the sign of wonder, excellence and creativity constantly renewed. At this unique philosophy, the house has also added a new dimension: generosity.
For many years, Jaquet Droz is partner of Only Watch charity event for the fight against muscular dystrophy. Today, the watch brand remains committed to the approach of this new edition, offering Loving The Butterfly. This exceptional watch, published in a single copy, will be auctioned in Monaco September 28, 2013.
From a historical pattern, designed once by one of the legendary machines designed by Pierre Jaquet-Droz in the 18th century, the Swiss watchmaker resurrects the magic of the Enlightenment for architecture and botany: the carriage in which is installed a cherub is pulled by a butterfly. On the one hand, a putto, the emblem of the Italian Renaissance and Baroque, on the other, a winged creature become a universal symbol of beauty, lightness and freedom. In the background, the princely palace of Monaco is represented painted tone on tone and gives a certain realism to the scene, which echoes the values ​​defended by Jaquet Droz embodied here by that team to tenderness than ever dream: the right to innocence, the power of the imagination, and confidence in his own dreams.
This pattern of naturalistic and romantic poetry dresses the face of the Petite Heure Minute. To achieve this unique piece of Jaquet Droz craftsmen combined their best skills. First engraved and painted gold decor is working for the first time like a bas-relief, and then applied to the Grand Feu enamel dial. This technique provides an unreleased masterpiece beautiful volume. The legs of the butterfly are wire suspended gold, waving slightly wrist movement. Received a yellow gold case 43 mm in diameter, The Loving Butterfly has an oscillating weight specially revealed. The Only Watch name engraved on the bottom of the box, to remind the owner that special event.
Presented worldwide in the month of September, The Loving Butterfly join the shores of the Mediterranean to be sold during the 5th edition of Only Watch in Monaco. Already synonymous with virtuosity watch, it embodies the present philanthropy Jaquet Droz, its support for advanced medical research and continued trust in a smiling and serene future.
Catalogue Description:

Jaquet Droz, LES ATELIER S D’ART , THE LOVING BUTTERFLY for Only Watch Jaquet Droz, LES ATELIERS D’ART, THE LOVING BUTTERFLY, Ref. J005031201 A fine and unique, self-winding, 18k yellow gold wristwatch with unique Grand Feu
C. 18-carat yellow gold, Engraving Only Watch and Numerus Clausus of 1 on the case-back. D. Ivory Grand Feu enameled dial, miniature painting on enamel, butterfly applique in 22-carat yellow gold, engraved, patinated, cloisonné enamel, Numerus Clausus N° I/I indicated on the dial, off-centered hours and minutes, 18-carat yellow gold hands. M. Jaquet Droz 2653, 28 jewels, self-winding mechanical movement, double barrel, 22-carat white gold oscillating weight, 68 hour power reserve.
Estimate: 30,000 EUR - 50,000 EUR

<<< Post #19: Ikepod                     Post #21: Julien Coudray 1518 >>>




Links to all the articles in our countdown can be found on the original post



Countdown to the ONLY WATCH Auction, 28th September, 2013. Post #19: Ikepod- Horizon

<<< Post #18: Hublot               Post #20: Jaquet Droz >>>


Today's post details the complex minimalism of Ikepod and their Horizon for Only Watch.

Ikepod

The Ikepod story begins in 1986, the year Australian designer, Marc Newson. completed his first prototype wristwatch: "Watches were one of the first things I tried to design as a kid", Newson recalls.  Eight years later, the designer joined forces with Swiss businessman Oliver Ike, forming a company to build upon the innovations of the POD watch and achieve new degrees of design intelligence and daring in the watch industry. IKEPOD launched numerous important and highly revered designs released in several collections over the years including the Seaslug, Isopode, Megapode, Manatee and Hemipode.

Ikepod timepieces are renowned for both their extraordinary design and innovative mechanical functions. 

In 2006 the company was revitalized by former distributor, Alexandre David and another shareholder. David had been in the watch industry to two decades and the first brand his company carried was the original Ikepod, building a strong base, particularly in France. His company almost folded from the fallout of the Ikepod collapse as the brand was the only brand in their client list. Then, the chance came to sell his distribution company and buy Ikepod.

Marc Newson has still had a level of involvement in the company, renewing some of his design concepts as well as designing the well known Ikepod "Hourlgass" which appeared in the 2011 Only Watch Auction. As collaborations become more and more frequent in the Swiss watch industry, Ikepod has begun working with street artist KAWS and Jeff Coons. Through collaborations such as these, and by utilizing the strikingly minimalist concepts that Ikepod is known for, the future looks bright the renewed company. Alexandre David has said "I think we disrupt a lot of norms in the watch industry. Ikepod has its own place and we do not really have too much competition because we aren’t like any other brand out there. Most watch companies pride themselves on who has the most complicated watches on the market. We pride ourselves on simple complications. When you look at our watches, they look extremely wearable with a flawless design, but they are actually very difficult to produce. Ikepod is at the crossroads of watchmaking and design."

An interesting side story. Oliver Ike, co-founder of the original Ikepod, (which owes part of it's name to him) has revived the A. Manzoni & Fils company. Founded in 1888, A. Manzoni & Fils produced precision mechanical movements for other Swiss watch brands until its closure in 1978. This year, via a Kickstarter campaign, the company, under it's new owner, Ike, plan to launch the Canopus Weekplanner designed by Ilkka Suppanen.


The video below highlights construction of the Ikepod Horizon KAWS edition.
Never one to limit himself within the confines of a specific category of artistic expression, the latest KAWS collaboration takes shapes with the street artist curating a custom-designed Ikepod Horizon Wristwatch. Bringing together the Swiss watchmaker’s affinity for contemporary and modern timepieces, the KAWS collaborative effort sees the trademark Chomper teeth motif emblazoned across the black dial with the dual lines of his “X” graphic comprising the hour and minute hands. True to the original Horizon models, the watch features a 44mm case and beautifully brushed bezel.






The Horizon

The Horizon No timepiece in the Ikepod collection exhibits the singular focus on the complexity of simplification more completely than the Ikepod Horizon. This simple 2 handed watch includes all of the brand’s most unique features including the round hemispheric case and the rubber bracelet that fits seamlessly into the case without lugs, clasping on the wrist without any buckle. The horizon has appealed to artists, designers and all those who appreciate a unique and iconoclastic approach to the wristwatch. It has taken the company years to perfect the roundness of the case, making the Ikepod Horizon look and feel like no other timepiece. The Horizon is for those who have the confidence to distinguish themselves by choosing a timepiece that is a true piece of contemporary design merged with the highest quality materials the Swiss watchmaking tradition can offer.


Catalogue description:
Ikepod Horizon for Only Watch A fine and unique, titanium, self-winding wristwatch. Accompanied by a fitted box.
C. Round, titanium, water resistant to 50m, sapphire crystal. D. Red, black hands. M. Cal. ETA 2892, rhodium-plated, fausses cotes decoration, 17 jewels, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating flat balance spring, micrometer regulator.
Estimate: 5,000 EUR - 8,000 EUR

<<< Post #18: Hublot               Post #20: Jaquet Droz >>>




Links to all the articles in our countdown can be found on the original post

Sunday, 8 September 2013

Countdown to the ONLY WATCH Auction, 28th September, 2013. Post #18: Hublot, Bright Red Ceramic "Classic Fusion"


<<< Post 17: Harry Winston                            Post #19: Ikepod >>>

Today we present the Bright Red Ceramic "Classic Fusion" by Hublot

Hublot

Hublot was founded by Carlo Crocco in 1980 after his departure from the Italian Binda Group, best known for Breil Watches. He formed MDM Geneve and designed a new watch that he called the Hublot (French for 'porthole'). The watch featured the first natural rubber strap in the history of watchmaking and the strap alone took three years of research to create. Despite the watch failing to attract a single customer at the 1980 Basel Watch Fair, it quickly became a success reaching $2m in sales in the first year.

The company continued on and Crocco sought the right person that could oversee his watchmaking business, while he focused on his design work and many activities for the Hand-in-Hand Foundation, a charity helping deprived children all around the world. In 2003 he met with Jean-Claude Biver, then president of Swatch Group's Omega division and, in May 2004, became CEO and minority shareholder in Hublot Watches.

Upon his arrival, Biver set about creating a new flagship collection that was unveiled in Basel in April 2005, with the Hublot "Big Bang" chronograph. It was an immediate success and orders increased threefold in one year. A few months later, in November 2005, the Big Bang chronograph was awarded internationally, receiving the "2005 Design Prize" in the "Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix", the "Sports Watch Prize" at the "Watch of the Year" ceremony in Japan, and the Middle Eastern Prize for the "Best Oversized Watch" at the Editor’s Choice "Watch of the Year" in Bahrain. Following the arrival of Biver in 2004, the brand's sales hit 24 million Swiss francs and by the end of 2006, sales were bordering on the 100 million Swiss franc mark.

To date, Hublot has 50 Boutiques all over the world. In February 2007, Hublot opened its first mono-brand store in Paris, in the Rue Saint-Honoré. The second was opened in the summer of that year, in the Hôtel Byblos, Saint-Tropez. Today, Hublot has a flagship store on Bond Street, London. Stores in the United States are currently located in Atlanta, Bal Harbour, Beverly Hills, Boca Raton, Dallas, Las Vegas, New York City, and Palm Beach.

In October 2012 they opened their newest store in Las Vegas and before that, a store in Ulan Bataar, Mongolia.


At BaselWorld 2009, Hublot unveiled a new method of detecting counterfeit watches. Using a WISeKey smart card, the system authenticates watches on Hublot's servers. The system went live in August 2009. WISeKey had developed a revolutionary technology against counterfeiting named WISeAuthentic. It can digitally authenticate an object is genuine. The technology consists of creating an electronic guarantee certificate with an algorithm, which contains the item identity code and is securely stored on a SmartCard that also enables privileged access to a reserved space on the brand’s website. The system can provide assistance to the police and customs officials. In addition to offering personalized solutions for digitally identifying authentic brand items, WISeAuthentic also provides direct sales information to the manufacturer and allows control over the grey market.
"In the watch industry we are seeing a significant increase in counterfeit goods,It was imperative for us as a company to find a way to not only protect our watches but also those who were purchasing them. WISekey has a strong track record in security and authentication and when looking for a partner to help us in the fight against counterfeiting we knew WISekey was the right choice for us."
- Jean-Claude Biver, CEO of Hublot.


To increase the public profile of their brand Hublot have engaged in a number of sponsorship deals. In 2008, they agreed a sponsorship deal with the football club Manchester United, worth £ 4 million a year. That same year they provided special versions of their Big Bang watches to referees officiating at UEFA Euro 2008. In March 2010, Hublot was appointed the Official Watchmaker of Formula 1. Hublot have released a number of Formula One themed watches as a committed partner to Formula One, including celebrating the return of the US Grand Prix to Austin, Texas in November 2012 with the Hublot F1 King Power Austin.

In April 2010 Hublot became the official time keeper of the 2010 FIFA World Cup and the 2014 FIFA World Cup. They have also been involved in a tie-up with the Financial Times, sponsoring the newspaper's iPad app.

Hublot and Ferrari announced during the 2011 Ferrari World Finals at Mugello a long-term strategic partnership which will officially start on 1 January 2012, making Hublot Ferrari's "Official Watch" and "Official Timekeeper". The partnership has so far been slowly built on two timepieces, the Hublot Big Bang Ferrari Magic Gold and Big Bang Ferrari Titanium, that Hublot have consistently toured at world locations throughout 2012.

They were also sponsor of the FIS Nordic World Ski Championships 2011 in Oslo.

Hublot continued their strong sponsorship and partnership activities in 2012 with becoming the Official Watch of the UEFA EURO 2012 tournament and Official Timekeeper of the tournament.[12]

In April 2012 Hublot Partnered the Swiss Confederation at the World Expo 2012 in South Korea, a 3 month world event at which they displayed their technically brilliant Divers Watch the Hublot Oceanographic 4000 King Gold White, which has been tested to a water resistance of 5000m and is certified water resistant to 4000m.

Hublot also partnered with the Archaeological Museum of Athens in presenting Hublot's “Tribute to the Antikythera Mechanism” movement. The Hublot movement officially joined the National Museum’s collection on the 5th April 2012 and will now be on display alongside the remains of the original mechanism.

In January 2013, Scuderia Ferrari will have Hublot as its official sponsor for 2013 F1 Season.
Ambassador

At the opening ceremony for its first flagship store in Beijing, Biver introduced Jet Li as Hublot's next brand ambassador. Li is the brand’s first Asian ambassador as well as the first film star to work as a Hublot ambassador. Other brand ambassadors include former footballer Diego Maradona; deceased Formula 1 driver Ayrton Senna’s family and Institute; world's fastest man Usain Bolt and formerly, the Manchester United football team. Formula One Management President and CEO, Bernie Ecclestone, was attacked by four men and had his Hublot watch stolen. He later worked with Hublot to use his bruised face in an ad campaign with the tag line, "See what people will do for a Hublot."







Bright Red Ceramic "Classic Fusion"

World Premiere of a watch made with bright red ceramic. Bright red is the colour inaugurating this new process, in tribute to the red of Monaco for the 5th Edition of Only Watch. The polished satin-finished black ceramic case houses a fully skeleton-worked tourbillon movement with an assertively elegant and contemporary design. It features a 5-day power reserve. In a little nod to the new red ceramic, the tourbillon has been enhanced on the sapphire dial by a little anodised red aluminium ring, while the black alligator strap has been stitched with red thread onto black rubber, making it as flexible as ever and a pleasure to wear.


Catalogue Description:
HUBLOT RED'N'BLA CK SKELETON TOUR BILON FOR ONLY WATCH Hublot Classic Fusion, Reference 505. CI.0140.LR.OWM13 A fine and unique polished, satin-finished black ceramic skeleton tourbillon wristwatch with red ceramic bezel - a World Premiere: this is the first time that a bright colored ceramic has been created. A ccompanied by a fitted box and certificate.
C. “Classic Fusion,” polished and satin-finished black ceramic bezel, red ceramic with 6 H-shaped titanium screws, crystal sapphire with interior/exterior anti-reflective coating, and metallised silver logo, bezel lug black composite resin, crown polished black ceramic with Hublot logo, caseback polished ceramic with sapphire crystal with interior anti-reflective treatment, water-resistance 3 ATM. D. Sapphire with anti-reflective coating on topside/underside, polished black coated indexes, indexes, hands polished, black coated. M. MHUB6010.H1.1, Hand-Wound Skeleton Tourbillon - 5 days of power reserve - entirely conceived, developed and produced in-house by Hublot Manufacture. 155 components, 19 jewels, frequency 21'600 Alt/h, black alligator strap stitched onto black rubber, red stitching.
Estimate: 80,000 EUR - 110,000 EUR


<<< Post 17: Harry Winston                            Post #19: Ikepod >>>






Links to all the articles in our countdown can be found on the original post