Countdown to the ONLY WATCH Auction, 28th September, 2013. Post #12: De Bethune

<<< Post #11: Cyrus                      Post #13: deLaCour>>>

Today we bring you the DB28 Skybridge from De Bethune.

De Bethune

De Bethune was founded in 2002 by David Zanetta, a collector with a passion for art, history and timepieces and Denis Flageollet, the son, grandson and great-grandson of watchmakers. Both shared a vision of the future of watchmaking and in the decade to follow, have gained a reputation as laying the foundations of where this century of watchmaking will lead.

By adhering to the line "not doing more, but doing better", they have pushed the boundaries in their efforts to blend time-honoured skills and the latest scientific breakthroughs into a seamless quest for precision and craftsmanship. The technical and the aesthetic meld together in the pursuit of perfection.

The methodology of De Bethune's workshop lies in it's determination to be a cutting-edge research and development laboratory. Implementing the spirit and procedures of master watchmakers of the last 200 years and utilising vast scientific knowledge, insatiable curiosity, artistic and historical erudition and mixing in a passion for beauty and aesthetic flair. This dedication has led to the company owning nine patents, thirteen calibres and fifteen innovations all within a time span of eleven years.

De Bethune isn't beholden to the standard materials in the world of horology. Gold, titanium and steel are all par for the course but, as though picturing themselves as modern alchemists, the Manufacture will use platinum, silicon, palladium amongst others. If they cannot achieve the desired effect with one then they will create an alloy of two in order to achieve the desired effects such as balance or reducing friction.

With a mindset on one side, steeped in the oldest of watchmaking traditions, while on the other is striving and pushing forward to the future, De Bethune proudly present a couple hundred pieces each year to a growing following of connoisseurs. The possibilities are limitless as limitations are only seen as a wall that needs to be broken down. While some other companies are proudly carrying on complications and traditions they have used for many years, the young guns of the industry seem to pushing the boundaries and taking horology into the 21st century and beyond.


The following video from Baselworld 2012,  shows the DB28 upon which the Skybridge is based.

Skybridge


De Bethune star-studded sky in blued mirror-polished grade 5 titanium encrusted with white gold and diamond stars representing the sky of November 19, 1857, the establishment of the National Monegasque Feast Day by Prince Charles III. Upon coming to the throne in 2005, Prince Albert decided to maintain the November 19th national holiday date, Saint Rainier's Feast Day, in memory of his father. 

Catalogue description:

De Bethune DB28 Skybridge MC for Only Watch De Bethune, “DB28 SKybridge MC”. Fine and unique, platinum, white gold and diamond-set wristwatch with the dial depicting the sky as seen from Monaco on November 19, 1857, the establishment of The National Monegasque Feast Day by Prince Charles III, twin self-regulating barrel, De Bethune silicon-palladium annular balance and a titanium De Bethune buckle. Accompanied by a fitted box and Certificate.

C. Three-body, round drum shape, with bezel in polished platinum, titanium floating lugs, screw-down crown, transparent back, anti-reflective sapphire crystals to 1800 Vickers D. Flame-blued titanium dial depicting the sky as seen from Monaco on November 19, 1857, the establishment of The National Monegasque Feast Day by Prince Charles III, picked out by 7 invisibly set white diamonds, further stars in applied white gold. Blued and mirror-polished steel hands. M. Cal. DB2105, mainplate and bridges in beveled and hand-polished steel, 27 jewels, twin self-regulating barrel, silicon-palladium annular balance, balance spring with flat terminal curve, silicon escape wheel, triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system, spherical moon phase indication. Dial, case and movement signed.

Estimate: 100,000 EUR - 130,000 EUR

<<< Post #11: Cyrus                      Post #13: deLaCour>>>

Post by Pawnbank.

Links to all the articles in our countdown can be found on the original post

Countdown to the ONLY WATCH Auction, 28th September, 2013. Post #11: Cyrus

<<< Post #10: Corum                     Post #12: De Bethune>>>

Today's post brings you a relative new comer to the watch making world, Cyrus, and the first model in the new Kambys Collection.

Cyrus

Founded by cousins, Laurent and Julien Lecamp, Cyrus watches gained its name from the conqueror, Cyrus the Great who is considered a pioneer of human rights when he lived 2500 years ago.
Laurent and Julien both took separate paths, choosing business school and architecture/design, respectively.

Laurent had begun work as a brand manager for wines and spirits before moving into the watchmaking world developing distribution networks for several brands, dreaming of creating and distributing his own brand around the world. Julien started as an architect in France, dreaming of designing major projects in famous cities of the world, although he really wanted to create lasting pieces of art that could be appreciated over time. They both shared a love of watchmaking and in 2001 decided to unite their skills and passion. With three years of preparation and the aid of an investor and renowned watchmaker and developer, Jean-Francois Mojon, the wheels were set in motion and Cyrus was born.

Cyrus regards itself as something of an unorthodox, non-conventional firm. They are committed to innovation and working outside the box without compromising on quality and design aesthetic.

In the short history of Cyrus, they have made an impressive impact in the world of horology, taking out the "Best Independent Brand" prize at the Watchmaker's Night of Monaco in their inaugural year.


Kuros Collection
The main idea of the Kuros Collection was to create unique desing without mimicking nor reinventing what already exists. Bearing the Greek name for Cyrus the Great (Kuros), this collection features design influence from the past while keeping hold of the future. The patented design is made to comfortably hold the curve of the wearers wrist while the folding clasp bears it's own unique design. Each series within the collection is limited to 188 pieces.
On the back of the gold editions is a replication of a 2500 year old Cyrus gold coin, the original of which is held by Cyrus Watches, and bears the representation of a bull and lion fighting.

Cyrus Kuros

Klepcys Collection- Mars
Cyrus released the Cyrus Klepcys Mars, a new version of the Cyrus Klepcys collection. This new model has to been seen as an independent one even if the core of the watch is the same, the mechanism has been slightly modified and the timepiece tells a whole different story. The 3D Moonphase from the other models has been redesigned for the planet Mars and bears a uniquely shaped sapphire dome which has been especially created for this timepiece as the 5 mm hand-painted Mars representation is too big and therefore cannot be placed under a uniform sapphire. That outside “bubble” is the first of its kind and is incredibly difficult to make (no one in Switzerland has been able to produce one!).


The face of Mars is a unique complication, a world premiere, it is the first time that a complication focuses entirely on the Mars planet. This small representation of the planet has been hand-painted and is rotating at the same speed as it moves in the universe : 24 hours, 37 minutes and 22 seconds.

Cyrus Klepcys Mars

Kambys Collection

The Kambys Collection makes its debut this year and the very first model is destined for the ONLY WATCH auction.


The video below showcases the intricate detail within the Kambys collection.

Kambys

The very first timepiece of the Kambys collection will be donated to ONLY WATCH 2013. Timepiece with manual double barrel winding and a seven-day power reserve.That movement (290 components, 50 rubies) is a 100% in-house manufacture movement, created under the aegis of renowned, award-winng Swiss watchmaker Jean-Francois Mojon.

Catalogue description:

CYRUS “KA MBYS” FOR ONLY WATCH CYRUS Genève: KAMBYS, pièce unique. Fine and unique, 5 atm water resistant, titanium wristwatch with seconds animation displayed by three different length hands; power reserve indicated by three sliding barrels (patent); secret animation button activated by the crown at 9 o’clock, deployant clasp in titanium. Functions developed in collaboration with Jean-François Mojon, awarded best conceptor/developer at the “Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie de Genève,” Nov. 2010. Accompanied by fitted box and Certificate. Because CYRUS relies only on the intuition of its founders Because CYRUS does not try to be like others Because CYRUS has a unique history and simply because no great genius has ever existed without a touch of folly. This is how the KAMBYS collection was born. The very first timepiece of that new collection will be the one dedicated to ONLY WATCH 2013.

C. Patented shape perfectly suiting to the wrist, brushed/ polished/sandblasted titanium, sapphire crystals, see-through sapphire case back, CYRUS specific screws. D. SECONDS - Three hands (inclined by 8°) with three arms of different lengths to cover the three sectors of 120°. POWER RESERVE - Three barrels slide progressively, one after the other, along a vertical axis. The two smaller cylinders each represent two days of power reserve. The third barrel represents three days. With a simple press on the crown at the 9 O’clock position, the following events are displayed in the opening: piece unique, flagship of the Principality of Monaco and CYRUS GENEVE logo M. Manual winding (7 days power reserve, double barrel), manufacture movement (CAL 7778) developed in collaboration with awarded Swiss watchmaker Jean-François Mojon. “Exclusively developed for ONLY WATCH 2013” engraved on one barrel. “Côtes de Genève” finishes. FREQUENCY – 3Hz (21’600 vibrations par hour)

Estimate: 40,000 EUR - 45,000 EUR

<<< Post #10: Corum                     Post #12: De Bethune>>>

Post by Pawnbank.

Links to all the articles in our countdown can be found on the original post

Countdown to the ONLY WATCH Auction, 28th September, 2013. Post #10: Corum Ti-Bridge

<<<Post #9: Christophe Claret                Post #11: Cyrus>>>

Today we present the Ti-Bridge from Corum.

Corum

Corum was founded in 1955 in la Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, by Rene Bannwart and his uncle Gaston Ries. Since then the company has aimed at being positioned at the forefront of the Swiss watch industry. The emblem represents a "key pointing skywards" and "is a symbol of the mastery to be fathomed, the enigma to be resolved, of new territories to be explored, and of innovation. It also alludes to the inventiveness, tenacity and bold spirit required in order to attain total mastery of time".

The first Corum watches appeared in 1956 and were quickly recognised within the industry as being among the most creative around. A seemingly endless output of new ideas were met with great success. From those early days, Corum now has a reputation offering high quality, innovative and distinctive designs and sophisticated mechanical movements which make up the four main collections in their catalogue: The Admiral's Cup, Romvlvs, Corum Bridges and Artisans.

Corum has continues to demonstrate a strong passion for charity projects such as Only Watch and the Ellen MacArthur Foundation. Social conscience is further demonstrated by being the first luxury watch company to attain the certification of "Equal Salary" by implementing a fair wage policy which does not discriminate between male and female employees.

The Corum Artisan watch line is defined by beautiful dials depicting wild animals, exotic locales, or even historic scenes, all of them limited edition masterpieces of some of the very few craftsmen left who are familiar with the immensely time consuming techniques used in these watches.

The Corum Golden Bridge collection is unique in the watchmaking world. Its four sapphire sides offer an unrestricted view of the intricately detailed linear movement, which appears to be floating in mid-air, held only by the gold bridge that names this watch. The Corum Golden Bridge is offered in 18k gold or platinum, and is also available with delicate diamond work.

The following video showcases the intricacy of the Corum Ti-Bridge.

Corum

Ti-Bridge 3-Day Power Reserve

This unique piece offered in a two-tone titanium and red gold case features an engraving of Asclepius and his snake-entwined staff, the symbol of medicine - an allegory celebrating the work of the Monaco Association Against Muscular Dystrophy.

Corum, Ti-Bridge Power Reserve for Only Watch Corum, Ti-Bridge Power Reserve, Ref. B107/02206 - 107.211.04/0F61 0000 Fine and unique, titanium and 18k red gold tonneau-shaped wristwatch with hand-engraving and power reserve indication. Accompanied by a fitted box and certificate. Water-resistance 30 meters / 3 ATM. Frequency 4 Hz, 28’800 vph

C. Tonneau-shape, sides in 18k red gold with Artisanal hand engraving, crown in titanium, water resistant to 30m, screw-down caseback, sapphire crystals. D. Brass Charcoal grey, Minute-circle indexes transferred on the flange, red gold-coated CORUM logo applied on the dial, Applied 5N red gold-coated hour indexes. M. Cal. CO 107, 25 jewels, Bridges and plate in titanium, power reserve: 72 hours.

Estimate: 20,000 EUR - 30,000 EUR

<<<Post #9: Christophe Claret                Post #11: Cyrus>>>

Post by Pawnbank.

Links to all the articles in our countdown can be found on the original post

Countdown to the ONLY WATCH Auction, 28th September, 2013. Post #9: Christophe Claret X-TREM-1 PINBALL

<<<Post #8: Chronoswiss                     Post #10: Corum>>>

Today's post highlights one of the most amazing timepieces and the master artisan behind it's creation: Christophe Claret and the X-TREM-1 PINBALL.

CHRISTOPHE CLARET

Christophe Claret is an engineer and watchmaker par excellence. While outside the horological world his name may not be well known, but within it he is regarded as the go-to man when intricately complex complications are required.   

In 1987, Rolf Schnyder acquired Ulysse Nardin and dreamed of a chiming wristwatch with striking jacks performing on the dial. Claret took on the project and using the latest computer aided design software, had the production ready model ready and delivered two and a half years ahead of schedule.

Cutting edge technology and innovation have been central to his operations since. His workshops have machine tools that other manufactures only dream of, including the only laser cutter in the industry, capable of cutting steel to with a micron tolerance leaving a surface so smooth you could run it across your eyeball. He is also able to machine bridges and baseplates out of sapphire crystal to create tourbillons that appear to float on air!

Following the success of Ulysse Nardin's automaton repeaters, Claret remained anonymous, leaving all the glory to the brand and it's master craftsmen. His discretion gained him much respect and projects came from other manufactures. Claret doesn't simply design pieces that are typical or average, or even above average. Only the most challenging projects gain his interest and his time and he will not work on single complications as he prefers combinations such as a tourbillon with a minute repeater. Among the 20+ brands that have sought his expertise are Breguet, Cartire, Chopard, Corum, Harry Winston, de Grisogono, Girard-Perregaux, Jean Dunand, Guy Ellia, Ellicott, Bovet, deLaCour, Delaneau, Cedric Johner and the "master of complications" himself, Franck Muller.

Among his finest achievements is a musical wristwatch that plays a choice of Mozart or Tchaikovsky either at the passing of the hour, or on demand. A minute mechanism comprising 20 tines is strummed by a rotating pin-drum which is able to shift sideways to engage the selected tune. At the time, Claret made the mistake of signing the watches with his company name and the line failed (the general rule in the Swiss watch industry is that there are no famous watchmakers, only famous brands). Now, however, they are made under the Girard-Perregaux name and marketed accordingly as the 'Opera Three', alongside two other Claret creations, the Operas One and Two. All three pieces are now recognised and appreciated as they should be. For interests sake, the tunes can be personalised providing that the customers tune can be played by the 20 note tines. Pachelbel's Canon, in a watch, would be absolute perfection!

When the company name 'Christope Claret' celebrated it's 20th anniversary in 2009, it's founder decided that it was time to begin production under its own brand and logo. It might seem like the move of a madman, creating pieces under his own brand that would be competing against other brands using his own movements and creations but this situational paradox has realised its own success as 50% of the work done in Claret's workshop is now dedicated to the brand. The world of haute horology was waiting to see what would be the first piece to come out under the brand name of Christope Claret, waiting to see how he could beat what he had already done for other brands.

The DualTow was released that year. An innovative new concept displaying an extraordinary combination of skill, extremely exclusivity and innovation. DualTow is a tourbillon, one-pusher chronograph with a sound indicator of functions’ choice. But the main original idea in this time machine is a linear-chain indication of hours and minutes in form of two rubber bands. This unusual timing gave the name of the model DualTow. Mechanical caliber SS20A consists of 582 parts and such an abundance of innovation and technical solutions that the experts can not reach a consensus on the most important of them. Many are attracted by the "crawler" indication of time and others - by a unique independent module of one-pusher chronograph with planetary gear and a unique system of levers. Every detail of the mechanism corresponds to the highest standards of horology and demonstrates absolute expertise.

Christophe Claret DualTow

Christophe Claret's innovations did not stop there. Two other outstanding pieces are the 21 Blackjack and the Baccara. Both pieces feature the fully interactive ability to play either blackjack or baccarat. The players cards are visible through three windows at the 6 o'clock position while the dealers cards are located at the 12 o'clock position. The player presses a button which causes an elaborate system of discs to shuffle the cards and thus, the game begins. A small window on the side of the watch near the crown contains small dice that can be rolled at any time. Not one to keep functions to a minimum, the back of each watch boasts a roulette wheel for those moments of downtime between card games.

Christophe Claret 21 Blackjack

The following video showcases the Christophe Claret facilities and some of the incredible timepieces that have been developed completely in-house.

The following video highlights the X-TREM collection by Christophe Claret, the watch that paved the way for the X-TREM-1 PINBALL.

The first of the X-TREM collection were released at Baselworld 2012 and for many it was the stand out watch of the whole trade fair. The design was stylish and revolutionary and for any who were able to try one on their wrist they found it surprisingly light and comfortable. Of course it was the innovative features that certainly made this piece stand out. Not least of all is the fact that it is the first watch to use magnetism to indicate time, the unique mechanism being developed in partnership with theSchool of Business and Engineering Vaud (Yverdon-les-Bains, Switzerland). Magnetic fields have long been the bane of watchmakers, in fact, it is recommended that watches are kept away  from strong magnetic fields so the X-TREM series doesn't only bend known conventions in watchmaking, it's completely defies them.

eXperimental
Time
Research
Engineering
Mechanism

The X-Trem-1 Pinball is a sophisticated adaptation of the phenomenal X-Trem-1, which in it own right is a formidable timepiece. Like all of Christophe Claret’s creations the concept originates from detailed drawings. Fundamentally this is a collective process that involves an enormous amount of passion & perseverance. The result in this case is a spectacular looking watch.

X-TREM-1 Pinball
A flying tourbillon watch equipped with a retrograde hours and minutes display system that is radically different from existing watchmaking conventions. Two tiny metal balls, isolated within grilled sapphire tubes on the left and right sides of the caseband magically move with no mechanical connection thanks to magnetic fields.

Christophe Claret X-TREM-1 PINBALL

Catalogue description:

Christophe Claret, X-TREM-1 Pinball for Only Watch Fine and unique, polished 18k white gold and blue anodised Perunal-type aluminium wristwatch with flying tourbillon regulator and floating spheres for time indication. Accompanied by a fitted box and certificate.

C. Rectangular with curvex profile, hours and minutes are indicated by two 4mm-diameter hollowed spheres weighing 0.100 grams that move past sapphire scales marked with thin orange Super-LumiNova graduations beneath the sapphire, 3 ATM or 30 m, polished white gold/blue anodised Perunal-type aluminium, fast time adjustment is via an integrated pusher on the middle at 12 o’clock, winding and time-setting via rotating “bows” that fold under caseback. M. Caliber FLY11, mechanical, hand-wound, 26.6 x 46.4 x 11.94 mm, 419 parts, 64 jewels, power reserve: 50+ hours, 3 Hz (21,600 vph), flying tourbillon inclined at 30° supported by a double ceramic bearing, with cone-shaped pinion transmission and rotates once every 60 seconds, Swiss lever escapement, dual barrels: one for the movement gear train and one for the time indications, the tourbillon movement and the time indication gear trains each have their own independent energy supply to optimise the power reserve.

Estimate: 230,000 EUR - 300,000 EUR

<<<Post #8: Chronoswiss                     Post #10: Corum>>>

Post by Pawnbank.

Links to all the articles in our countdown can be found on the original post

Countdown to the ONLY WATCH Auction, 28th September, 2013. Post #8: Chronoswiss, The Three Apes

<<< Post #7: Chopard                          Post #9: Christophe Claret>>>

Today we bring you The Three Apes, an amazing piece by Chronoswiss, celebrating their 30th anniversary this year.

Chronoswiss

Chronoswiss was founded by Gerd R. Lang in 1983 with the mission to make the most extraordinary mechanical timepieces.

Gerd-R. Lang didn’t want to pick watchmaking as a trade, he was pushed into it by his father and as testament to how often “father knows best”, it turns out that Lang would find himself finally excelling in this venerable craft.
In Switzerland and in apprenticeship at then Heuer (now TAG Heuer), the Brunswick-born native would find himself at the Swiss industry’s major crossroads. Witness to the 1960s quartz crisis that forced closure on many centuries old brands and nearly ended Swiss mechanical watchmaking as an industry, Lang was asked to leave a desperate and rapidly downsizing Heuer where he had spent the better part of 18 years refining his craft.

Henceforth, prior to founding Chronoswiss, Lang had gained significant experience in manufacturing movements for other major brands. His single greatest gift to horology is the crystal case back. First invented in 1982 and now widely copied by all major watchmakers.

Chronoswiss tries to stay exclusive by only producing about 7,000 watches per year. All watches are hand-finished. While many of the movements used in Chronoswiss watches are based on the Enicar 165 movement, the Chronoswiss versions feature significant improvements, both technical and aesthetic. Although a relatively new brand, innovative timepieces have continued to earn Chronoswiss significant respect within both the horological industry, and among collectors. Gerd Lang is well known for his love of detail, and their highly detailed crowns, bezels, and casebands are some of Chronoswiss' distinguishing features and he is very passionate about the past, present and future of the Swiss watch industry,

"I do not build watches for time. Nobody needs a watch, because you have the time in the car, the kitchen and everywhere else. Watches exist so that you can say each morning, “I love my watch.” Mechanical watches last for one or more generations and good watches are passed on to the son. This is what we want to give with our watches".

"I believe in longevity of a timepiece that can last three generations unlike mass manufactured quartz rubbish".

The following video showcases the Régulateur 30, a limited edition piece in solid 18ct gold of which only 130 are being created.

The Three Apes

In the year of the thirtieth anniversary of the company, Chronoswiss proudly makes its debut at the Only Watch auction. For the first time in the history of the company, it has created an in-house, handcrafted, unique watch featuring various rare crafts and arts.
A unique mechanical wristwatch combining the high arts of skeletonizing, fire enameling and guilloche main, featuring a dial dedicated to "The Three Apes" (hearing, seeing and speaking no evil) and handcrafted with guilloche decor and transparent enamel, as well as a manually wound movement skeletonized by hand. 

Chronoswiss: The Three Apes

Catalogue description:

Chronoswiss “The Three Apes” for Only Watch Chronoswiss, The Three Apes, Ref. CH-6721R-OW2013 Fine and unique, large 18K red gold wristwatch with guilloche enamel dial representing the three apes. Accompanied by fitted box and Certificate.

C. Solid 21-part case in red gold (18-karat), polished, 44mm, height 11.10mm; sapphire crystal with antireflective coating; solid onion-shaped crown; fully threaded, screw-in back with sapphire crystal with antireflective coating; screwed strap-lugs with patented Autobloc system; water-resistant to 3 atmospheres. D. Solid 18K gold dial embellished with guilloche details performed by hand and on top of the guilloche, enameled by hand (dial enameled in several parts, cloisonné); gold-plated hands. M. ETA 6498, manually wound; individualized modification: skeletonized by hand; Ø 16½’’’ (36.6 mm); 17 jewels; Incabloc shock absorber; ca. 40-hour power reserve; 2.5 Hz. 18,000 A/h (semi-oscillations); Glycydur screw-balance; Nivarox 1 flat balance-spring; polished lever, escape-wheel and screws; elaborately and manually skeletonized and engraved base plate, gear-train bridges and balance-clock; polished steel screws; crown wheel and ratchet wheel.

Estimate: 22,000 EUR - 32,000 EUR

<<< Post #7: Chopard                          Post #9: Christophe Claret>>>

Post by Pawnbank.

Links to all the articles in our countdown can be found on the original post

Countdown to the ONLY WATCH Auction, 28th September, 2013. Post #7: Chopard, L.U.C Tourbillon Only Watch 2013 Edition

<<<Post #6: Chanel                        Post #8: Chronoswiss>>>

Today, we bring you the timeless perfection of the Chopard L.U.C Tourbillon Only Watch 2013 Edition

Chopard


Chopard is a Swiss-based luxury watch, jewellery, and accessories company founded in 1860 by Louis-Ulysse Chopard at the age of 24, creating his L.U.C manufacturing company in Sonvilier, Switzerland. Chopard initially concentrated on developing precise pocket watches and chronometers based upon innovative ideas. Chopard is regarded as a manufacture, in other words their watches and movements are mostly made in-house rather than using the base movements of other manufacturers.

No watches were mass-produced but his blend of artistry and functionality soon won over a large number of customers. Having grasped that foreign markets represented the future of his timepieces, he set off to canvass customers in Eastern Europe, Russia and Scandinavia. In 1912, he visited Poland, Hungary and The Netherlands with his finest creations. Chopard chronometers and watches marked the passing of time at the court of Nicolas II. Louis-Ulysse Chopard had won himself an international clientele.

In 1937, Chopard relocated their operations to Geneva, boasting 150 employees at the time, and launched into the production of quality watches. Louis-Ulysse Chopard's grandson, Paul-André Chopard, sells the company to Karl Scheufele III, a young goldsmith and watchmaker in 1963. As the new head of the company, he quickly gains significant experience with watchmaking, and contributes to the modernization of the company, adding the jewellery segment into the Chopard watch production.

The first Chopard boutiques were opened in Hong Kong, Geneva and Vienna in the 1980's and by 1996, the company founds a watch manufacturing company in Fleurier, in the Swiss Jura, dedicated to the production of mechanical L.U.C movements. After years of planning and development, the first Chopard in-house movement of the late 20th century was produced, the calibre 1.96.This calibre was in many ways a ground-breaking movement for Chopard and has been referred to as perhaps the finest Swiss automatic movement now produced.

 The beginning of the new millennium was marked by the introduction of the Chopard L.U.C Quattro watch, powered by a technically advanced caliber with four barrels - an innovation that provided 9-day power reserve. The horology world was joined by the Chopard L.U.C Tonneau watch powered by the first-ever tonneau-shaped self-winding movement with off-centered micro-rotor.

 L.U.C is the “Haute Horlogerie” collection of the Chopard brand. L.U.C is the eponym of Louis-Ulysse Chopard, the watchmaking company’s founder back in 1860. The L.U.C collection was first introduced in 1997.Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, the Co-President of Chopard, started the project of crafting the L.U.C watches in 1993 in Val-de-Travers. Within a few years, nine different movement families (96, 97, 98, 02, 04, 05, 03, 06, 01) and more than 50 variations were designed and produced among which the L.U.C 96.01-L, the L.U.C 98.01-L; the L.U.C 02.01-L ( Tourbillon); the L.U.C 97.03-L and the L.U.C 03.03-L chronograph movement.

The L.U.C watches are handcrafted and hand-decorated, chronometer-certified by the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres - COSC. Many of them are also marked with the Geneva Seal or Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark. Several models have also received the Fleurier Quality Foundation certification.

Chopard is a proud Member of the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC), an international not-for-profit standards-setting organisation established to reinforce consumer confidence in the jewellery industry by advancing responsible business practices throughout the supply chain.

Chopard are extremely active in a number of patronage and sponsorship activites.

In 1998, Chopard became the event sponsor of the Mille Miglia race. Karl and his son, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele’s personal passion for collectors’ cars lead them to regard this partnership as much more than a passive commitment, and father and son have personally participated every year in the 1000-mile race from Brescia to Rome and back.

Chopard entered into a partnership with the Cannes Film Festival in 1998 when the company redesigned the festival's award, the Golden Palm. Each year they create new models and events to celebrate films. They have since introduced the Chopard Trophy to promote creativity in films and each year a jury of professionals awards the trophy to two young actors.



In 2002, Chopard became official partner and timekeeper for the The Grand Prix de Monaco Historique, and has also developed a series of classically inspired sports watches, forming the Grand Prix de Monaco Historique collection. They are awarded to the winners of each category.


As a family owned and operated company they have assisted many fields over the years including medicine, ecology, art and culture.In 2010, a three year partnership with the WWF's Tiger Initiative began which aims to save wild tigers from extinction through conservation efforts. The José Carreras Leukaemia Foundation, the Elton John AIDS Foundation and The Prince’s Foundation are all dedicated to improving the well-being of others and all have gained the support of Chopard and the Scheufele family, at times donating timeless Chopard pieces as a symbol of their dedication to the cause. Needless to say, their involvement with the Only Watch charity auction is another outlet for improving the lives of others through research and development of treatment methods.




The featured video presents the Chopard LUC Triple Certification Tourbillon, the only timepiece in the world with the certificates from the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC), the Geneva Seal or Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark and the highly prized Fleurier Quality Foundation certification.

Chopard, L.U.C Tourbillon Only Watch 2013 Edition

The one-of-a-kind platinum tourbillon features an exclusive hand-engraved dial and movement and is equipped with the 9-day power-reserve L.U.C Calibre 02.17-L. Ref. 161929-9001. The motif representing DNA chromosomes serves as a reminder of the reason behind this charity auction: to support research on Duchenne muscular dystrophy.

Chopard, L.U.C Tourbillon Only Watch 2013

Catalogue description:

Chopard, L.U.C Tourbillon Only Watch 2013 Edition Chopard, L.U.C. Tourbillon Only Watch, Ref. 161929-9001 Fine and unique, water-resistant, platinum chronometer wristwatch with visible one-minute tourbillon regulator, 9 day power reserve indication, hand-engraved dial with a 18K white gold Chopard buckle. Accompanied by fitted box and Certificate.

C. Platinum case, polished and satin-brushed surface finishes, transparent case-back, sapphire crystals. D. Silver-toned and white, hand-decorated and its central motif represents the coat of arms of the Principality of Monaco, surrounded by DNA chromosomes, Roman numerals. Gold-toned “Dauphine” hands. M. 18-carat gold bridges of L.U.C Caliber 02.17-L decorated using the so-called fleurisanne engraving technique.

Estimate: 120,000 EUR - 160,000 EUR

<<<Post #6: Chanel                        Post #8: Chronoswiss>>>

Post by Pawnbank.

Countdown to the ONLY WATCH Auction, 28th September, 2013. Post #6: Chanel- Premiere Flying Tourbillon

<<< Post #5: Breguet                     Post #7: Chopard>>>

In today's post, we bring you the stunning Flying Tourbillon from the House of Chanel.

Chanel

The House of Chanel (Chanel S.A.) originated in 1909, when Gabrielle Chanel opened a millinery shop on the ground floor of a Parisian flat belonging to the socialite and textile businessman Étienne Balsan. The Balsan flat was a salon for the French hunting and sporting élite and Chanel had opportunity to meet men and women of fashion.

Coco Chanel thus could sell to them the hats she designed and made, earning a living, independent of her financial sponsor, Balsan. In the course of those salons Coco Chanel befriended Arthur ‘Boy’ Capel, an English socialite and polo player friend of Étienne Balsan. Capel perceived the businesswoman innate to Coco Chanel, and, in 1910, financed her first independent millinery shop, Chanel Modes, at 21 rue Cambon, Paris.

In 1915 and in 1917, Harper’s Bazaar magazine reported that the garments of the House of Chanel were “on the list of every buyer” for the clothing factories of Europe.She presented day-wear dress-and-coat ensembles of simple design, and black evening dresses trimmed with lace; and tulle-fabric dresses decorated with jet, a minor gemstone material.

By 1920, Chanel had designed and presented a woman’s suit of clothes — composed either of two garments or of three garments — which allowed a woman to have a modern, feminine appearance, whilst being comfortable and practical to maintain; advocated as the “new uniform for afternoon and evening”, it became known as the Chanel Suit.

In 1921, to complement the suit of clothes, Coco Chanel commissioned the perfumer Ernest Beaux to create a perfume for the House of Chanel, his perfumes included the perfume No.5, named after the number of the sample Chanel liked best. Originally, a bottle of No. 5 de Chanel was a gift to clients of Chanel. The popularity of the perfume prompted the House of Chanel to offer it for retail sale in 1922.

The Chanel wristwatch division was established in 1987. In 1995, division presented a second design, the Matelassé.[30] Although the Première and Matelassé wristwatches were successful products, the presentation, in 2000, of the Chanel J12 line of unisex style wristwatches, made of ceramic materials, established Chanel wristwatches as a Chanel marque. In 2008, Chanel S.A. and Audemars Piguet developed the ceramic Chanel AP-3125 clockwork, exclusive to the House of Chanel.

Worldwide, Chanel S.A. operates some 310 boutiques.The shops are located in wealthy communities, usually in department stores, shopping districts, and inside airports.

The following video demonstrates the Chanel Premier Flying Tourbillon, highlighting the complexity of the tourbillon movement in stunning detail.

Chanel, Première Flying Tourbillon

Movement exclusively developed for Chanel by Renaud et Papi (APRP SA). High feminine complication, this flying tourbillon decorated with the motif of the camellia, a tribute to Mademoiselle Chanel’s favorite flower, beats away discreetly and almost secretly at the heart of the Première watch.
Having no upper bridge, the carriage decorated with a camellia appears to be rotating in a weightless state. Unique edition in 18-carat white gold set with 169 diamonds (~2.20 carats) with a black high-tech ceramic bezel exclusively created for Only Watch.

Chanel Premiere Flying Tourbillon

Catalogue description:

CHANEL, PREMIÈRE FLYING TOURBILON FOR ONLY WATCH CHANEL, Première Flying Tourbillon, Movement exclusively developed for CHANEL by Renaud et Papi (APRP SA). Unique edition in 18-carat white gold set with 169 diamonds (~2.20 carats) with a black high-tech ceramic bezel exclusively created for Only Watch. High feminine complication, this flying tourbillon decorated with the motif of the camellia, a tribute to Mademoiselle Chanel’s favorite flower, beats away discreetly and almost secretly at the heart of the Première watch. Having no upper bridge, the carriage decorated with a camellia appears to be rotating in a weightless state. BRACELET Sold on a black alligator strap but presented on a black satin strap. 18-carat white gold double folding buckle set with 30 brilliant-cut diamonds

C. 18-carat white gold case (28.5 x 37 mm) set with 92 brilliant-cut diamonds (~1.67 carats). Black high tech ceramic bezel exclusively created for Only Watch. 18-carat white gold crown set with 13 brilliant-cut diamonds and black high tech ceramic cabochon. Black high tech ceramic case-back. D. Polished black high tech ceramic dial. Colourless anti reflection treated sapphire crystal. 18-carat white gold hands set with 15 brilliant-cut diamonds. Tourbillon cabochon set with 19 brilliant-cut diamonds. M. “Camélia Flying Tourbillon” Calibre. Movement exclusively developed for CHANEL by Renaud et Papi (APRP SA). Manual winding mechanical movement. 40 hour power reserve. Number of parts: 225. Components, chamfered, stretched, and circular grained. Number of rubies: 18. Flying Tourbillon: 73 components – carriage weight: 0.432 g. Frequency: 21’600 vibrations/ hour (3 Hz). Motor unit: 1 fixed clamp barrel. Spring torque: 720 g.mm. Custom designed oblong bottom plate. Shockproof system on the balance. Balance with variable inertia moment.

Estimate: 150,000 EUR - 200,000 EUR

<<< Post #5: Breguet                        Post #7: Chopard>>>

Post by Pawnbank.

Links to all the articles in our countdown can be found on the original post

Countdown to the ONLY WATCH Auction, 28th September, 2013. Post #5: Breguet- Classique Chronograph openworked 5284

<<<Post #4: Blancpain                         Post #6: Chanel>>>

Today we focus on Breguet, Classique Chronograph openworked 5284. Breguet has long been considered one of the masters of the grand complications.

Breguet

Breguet is a Swiss manufacturer of luxury watches, founded by Abraham-Louis Breguet in Paris in 1775. Currently part of The Swatch Group, its timepieces are now (since 1976) produced in the Vallée de Joux in Switzerland. It is one of the oldest surviving watch-making establishments and is the pioneer of numerous watch-making technologies, the most notable being the tourbillon, invented by Abraham-Louis Breguet.

The connections Breguet had made with scholarly people during his apprenticeship as a watchmaker and as a student of mathematics soon paid off. Following his introduction to the court, Queen Marie Antoinette grew fascinated by Breguet's unique self-winding watch. Legend has it that Marie Antoinette commissioned the watch that was to contain every watch function known at that time, Breguet's masterpiece, the Marie Antoinette (No. 160).

The business grew from strength to strength and Breguet attracted a large following of patrons including Kings, Queens, Emperors, Presidents, Writers and Musicians, some of which are listed below:

Queen Marie-Antoinette of France.
King Louis XVI of France.
Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte of France
Empress Joséphine de Beauharnais of France
King George IV England.
Sultan Selim III of the Ottoman Empire
Tsar Alexander I of Russia.
King George III of England.
King Ferdinand VII of Spain.
King Louis XVIII of France.
Queen Victoria of England.
President George Washington of America
Prime Minister Sir Winston Churchill
Sultan Fuad I, King of Egypt and Sudan, Sovereign of Nubia, Kordofan, and Darfur.
Arthur Rubinstein, Master pianist (1930)
Sergei Rachmaninoff, Composer (1931
King Edward VIII of England.
President Nicolas Sarkozy of France.
President Dmitry Medvedev of Russia
Leo Tolstoy.
Aristotle Onassis.
Victor Hugo.
Prince Charles of Wales.

Breguet is also a popular choice for fictional characters including many created by Leo Tolstoy and Alexandre Dumas. In a time before radio, television and the internet, Breguet fostered a clever marketing strategy by introducing a line of writing instruments as a tribute to writers who mention or feature Breguet watches in their works.

The following video highlights some of Breguet's many masterworks.

Designed in the 1940s by Albert Piguet at the Lémania workshops, the calibre CH 27 undecorated movement quickly won a reputation for its endurance and reliability. Today, Breguet brings this movement to life again by offering it a unique design. The case of reference 5284 in 18-carat yellow gold is decorated with fine fluting on the caseband, reflecting Breguet’s first timepieces. The open-tipped hands designed around 1783 by the brand’s founder enhance the overall beauty of the movement entirely engraved by hand, which can be admired through a sapphire crystal.

Classique Chronograph openworked 5284

Breguet, ”Classique Chronograph Openwork,” for Only Watch Breguet, “Classique Chronograph Openwork”, pièce unique, Ref. 5284BA/10/9ZU. Fine and unique, water-resistant, 18K yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with skeletonized dial with an 18K gold Breguet clasp. Accompanied by a box

C. In 18-carat yellow gold with a finely fluted caseband. Sapphire-crystal case back. Welded lugs with screw bars. Engraved “unique piece”. Water resistant to 3 bar (30m). Dial Sapphire crystal. Individually numbered and signed Breguet. Centered chapter ring. Small seconds at 9 O’clock and 30 minutes counter at 3 O’clock. Breguet open-tipped hands. Movement Hand-wound openworked chronograph movement. Numbered and signed Breguet. Cal. 533.2 SQ, 12 lines, 21 jewels. Power reserve of 48 hours. In-line Swiss lever escapement. Breguet balance spring. 2.5Hz frequency. Adjusted in five positions. Diameter 42.5 mm. thickness 11.85 mm D. Sapphire crystal. Individually numbered and signed Breguet. Centered chapter ring. Small seconds at 9 O’clock and 30 minutes counter at 3 O’clock. Breguet open-tipped hands. M. Hand-wound openworked chronograph movement. Numbered and signed Breguet. Cal. 533.2 SQ, 12 lines, 21 jewels. Power reserve of 48 hours. In-line Swiss lever escapement. Breguet balance spring. 2.5Hz frequency. Adjusted in five positions.

Estimate: 100,000 EUR - 120,000 EUR

<<<Post #4: Blancpain                         Post #6: Chanel>>>

Post by Pawnbank.


 Links to all the articles in our countdown can be found on the original post

Countdown to the ONLY WATCH Auction, 28th September, 2013. Post #4: Blancpain- Women, Only Watch 2013

<<<Post #3: Bell & Ross                   Post #5: Breguet>>>

Today's featured watch is Blancpain's 'Women, Only Watch 2013'

Blancpain

Blancpain began making timepieces in 1735 in Villeret, Switzerland following it's founding by Jehan-Jaques Blancpain. The company is now has headquarters in Biel, Switzerkand with 35 stores and 396 retailers worldwide.

The company has never produced quartz watches in the past and has stated in its advertisements that it never will, nor have they ever produced watches with digital displays. In comparison to a large watch maker like Rolex, which makes about 2,000 watches a day, Blancpain produces fewer than three watches per day. Each watch is made by a single watchmaker.

Blancpain is also famous for being the creator of one of the most complicated mechanical watches ever made, the Blancpain 1735, which is a true grand complication (Tourbillon, minute repeater, perpetual calendar, split chrono), a limited edition of 30 pieces only, production of just one piece per year.

The video below showcases the "Saint Valentin 2013", from the 'Women' Collection and created especially for Valentine's Day, 2013. The stunning combination of gemstones, colours and shapes, and the extreme precision of Blancpain's movements, makes this piece a dedicated declaration of love.

First watch brand to commit alongside the Monaco Association against Muscular Dystrophy, Blancpain is renewing its support this year by presenting a unique model from its Women collection. This watch specially created for the Only Watch 2013 charity auction will travel the world before going under the hammer in Monaco on September 28th.

This one-of-a-kind model combines mother-of-pearl marquetry, diamonds and engraving in a delightfully feminine watch equipped with a self-winding movement. On the dial, a white mother-of-pearl dove flies across a blue mother-of-pearl sky. With 12 diamonds hour-markers set around the dial, the watch radiates a feminine aura of elegance. A glance through the sapphire crystal case-back offers a chance to appreciate the decorative work on the oscillating weight bearing a dove engraving and the inscription ONLY WATCH 2013, like an anthem to life. This watch water-resistant to 3 bar is fitted with a white alligator leather strap and a folding clasp.

Women, Only Watch 2013

  Catalogue description:

Blancpain, Women Collection for Only Watch Blancpain, “Women Collection”, Ref. 3300-3554L-55B. Fine and unique, self-winding, water-resistant white gold and diamonds lady’s wristwatch with mother-of-pearl marquetry dial. Accompanied by fitted box and Certificate.

C. White gold, bezel set with two rows of diamonds (carat 0.70), sapphire crystal case back. D. Mother-of-pearl dial marquetry representing a dove. 12 diamond hour-markers (carat 0.09). M. Cal. 1153, rhodium-plated, 28 jewels, 100-hour power-reserve. Oscillating weight decorated with an exceptional entirely handcrafted engraving of a dove and engraved Only Watch 2013. Dial, case and movement signed.

Estimate: 40,000 EUR - 60,000 EUR

<<<Post #3: Bell & Ross                   Post #5: Breguet>>>

First watch brand to commit alongside the Monaco Association against Muscular Dystrophy, Blancpain is renewing its support this year by presenting a unique model from its Women collection. This watch specially created for the Only Watch 2013 charity auction will travel the world before going under the hammer in Monaco on September 28th.
This biennial auction is placed under the patronage of His Most Serene Highness Prince Albert II of Monaco. In 2013, it will feature over 30 exceptional timepieces created by the most prestigious watch companies. As of September 6th, the travelling exhibition will tour the world before the Monaco auction on September 28th morning. The funds raised will be entirely donated to support medical research on Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy, a degenerative neuromuscular disease.
Blancpain has been lending its unfailing support to this cause since 2001 when it became the first watch brand to back the AMM. For over 10 years, the Manufacture from Le Brassus has joined in the struggle and taken part in the various operations organised by the association. This year, for the fifth edition of Only Watch, the brand is unveiling a unique creation stemming for the first time from its Women collection.
This one-of-a-kind model combines mother-of-pearl marquetry, diamonds and engraving in a delightfully feminine watch equipped with a self-winding movement. On the dial, a white mother-of-pearl dove flies across a blue mother-of-pearl sky. With 12 diamonds hour-markers set around the dial, the watch radiates a feminine aura of elegance. A glance through the sapphire crystal case-back offers a chance to appreciate the decorative work on the oscillating weight bearing a dove engraving and the inscription ONLY WATCH 2013, like an anthem to life. This watch water-resistant to 3 bar is fitted with a white alligator leather strap and a folding clasp.
- See more at: http://www.noodls.com/view/468C5176C803A9C25CA63FF64D3E2A5365B70A72#sthash.xjcR0YNT.dpuf

First watch brand to commit alongside the Monaco Association against Muscular Dystrophy, Blancpain is renewing its support this year by presenting a unique model from its Women collection. This watch specially created for the Only Watch 2013 charity auction will travel the world before going under the hammer in Monaco on September 28th.
This biennial auction is placed under the patronage of His Most Serene Highness Prince Albert II of Monaco. In 2013, it will feature over 30 exceptional timepieces created by the most prestigious watch companies. As of September 6th, the travelling exhibition will tour the world before the Monaco auction on September 28th morning. The funds raised will be entirely donated to support medical research on Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy, a degenerative neuromuscular disease.
Blancpain has been lending its unfailing support to this cause since 2001 when it became the first watch brand to back the AMM. For over 10 years, the Manufacture from Le Brassus has joined in the struggle and taken part in the various operations organised by the association. This year, for the fifth edition of Only Watch, the brand is unveiling a unique creation stemming for the first time from its Women collection.
This one-of-a-kind model combines mother-of-pearl marquetry, diamonds and engraving in a delightfully feminine watch equipped with a self-winding movement. On the dial, a white mother-of-pearl dove flies across a blue mother-of-pearl sky. With 12 diamonds hour-markers set around the dial, the watch radiates a feminine aura of elegance. A glance through the sapphire crystal case-back offers a chance to appreciate the decorative work on the oscillating weight bearing a dove engraving and the inscription ONLY WATCH 2013, like an anthem to life. This watch water-resistant to 3 bar is fitted with a white alligator leather strap and a folding clasp.
- See more at: http://www.noodls.com/view/468C5176C803A9C25CA63FF64D3E2A5365B70A72#sthash.xjcR0YNT.dpuf

First watch brand to commit alongside the Monaco Association against Muscular Dystrophy, Blancpain is renewing its support this year by presenting a unique model from its Women collection. This watch specially created for the Only Watch 2013 charity auction will travel the world before going under the hammer in Monaco on September 28th.
This biennial auction is placed under the patronage of His Most Serene Highness Prince Albert II of Monaco. In 2013, it will feature over 30 exceptional timepieces created by the most prestigious watch companies. As of September 6th, the travelling exhibition will tour the world before the Monaco auction on September 28th morning. The funds raised will be entirely donated to support medical research on Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy, a degenerative neuromuscular disease.
Blancpain has been lending its unfailing support to this cause since 2001 when it became the first watch brand to back the AMM. For over 10 years, the Manufacture from Le Brassus has joined in the struggle and taken part in the various operations organised by the association. This year, for the fifth edition of Only Watch, the brand is unveiling a unique creation stemming for the first time from its Women collection.
This one-of-a-kind model combines mother-of-pearl marquetry, diamonds and engraving in a delightfully feminine watch equipped with a self-winding movement. On the dial, a white mother-of-pearl dove flies across a blue mother-of-pearl sky. With 12 diamonds hour-markers set around the dial, the watch radiates a feminine aura of elegance. A glance through the sapphire crystal case-back offers a chance to appreciate the decorative work on the oscillating weight bearing a dove engraving and the inscription ONLY WATCH 2013, like an anthem to life. This watch water-resistant to 3 bar is fitted with a white alligator leather strap and a folding clasp.
- See more at: http://www.noodls.com/view/468C5176C803A9C25CA63FF64D3E2A5365B70A72#sthash.xjcR0YNT.dpuf

Post by Pawnbank.

 Links to all the articles in our countdown can be found on the original post