Thursday 22 August 2013

Countdown to the ONLY WATCH Auction, 28th September, 2013. Post #6: Chanel- Premiere Flying Tourbillon


<<< Post #5: Breguet                     Post #7: Chopard>>>

In today's post, we bring you the stunning Flying Tourbillon from the House of Chanel.

Chanel

The House of Chanel (Chanel S.A.) originated in 1909, when Gabrielle Chanel opened a millinery shop on the ground floor of a Parisian flat belonging to the socialite and textile businessman Étienne Balsan. The Balsan flat was a salon for the French hunting and sporting élite and Chanel had opportunity to meet men and women of fashion.

Coco Chanel thus could sell to them the hats she designed and made, earning a living, independent of her financial sponsor, Balsan. In the course of those salons Coco Chanel befriended Arthur ‘Boy’ Capel, an English socialite and polo player friend of Étienne Balsan. Capel perceived the businesswoman innate to Coco Chanel, and, in 1910, financed her first independent millinery shop, Chanel Modes, at 21 rue Cambon, Paris.

In 1915 and in 1917, Harper’s Bazaar magazine reported that the garments of the House of Chanel were “on the list of every buyer” for the clothing factories of Europe.She presented day-wear dress-and-coat ensembles of simple design, and black evening dresses trimmed with lace; and tulle-fabric dresses decorated with jet, a minor gemstone material.

By 1920, Chanel had designed and presented a woman’s suit of clothes — composed either of two garments or of three garments — which allowed a woman to have a modern, feminine appearance, whilst being comfortable and practical to maintain; advocated as the “new uniform for afternoon and evening”, it became known as the Chanel Suit.

In 1921, to complement the suit of clothes, Coco Chanel commissioned the perfumer Ernest Beaux to create a perfume for the House of Chanel, his perfumes included the perfume No.5, named after the number of the sample Chanel liked best. Originally, a bottle of No. 5 de Chanel was a gift to clients of Chanel. The popularity of the perfume prompted the House of Chanel to offer it for retail sale in 1922.

The Chanel wristwatch division was established in 1987. In 1995, division presented a second design, the Matelassé.[30] Although the Première and Matelassé wristwatches were successful products, the presentation, in 2000, of the Chanel J12 line of unisex style wristwatches, made of ceramic materials, established Chanel wristwatches as a Chanel marque. In 2008, Chanel S.A. and Audemars Piguet developed the ceramic Chanel AP-3125 clockwork, exclusive to the House of Chanel.

Worldwide, Chanel S.A. operates some 310 boutiques.The shops are located in wealthy communities, usually in department stores, shopping districts, and inside airports.

The following video demonstrates the Chanel Premier Flying Tourbillon, highlighting the complexity of the tourbillon movement in stunning detail.









Chanel Premiere Flying Tourbillon

Catalogue description:

CHANEL, PREMIÈRE FLYING TOURBILON FOR ONLY WATCH CHANEL, Première Flying Tourbillon, Movement exclusively developed for CHANEL by Renaud et Papi (APRP SA). Unique edition in 18-carat white gold set with 169 diamonds (~2.20 carats) with a black high-tech ceramic bezel exclusively created for Only Watch. High feminine complication, this flying tourbillon decorated with the motif of the camellia, a tribute to Mademoiselle Chanel’s favorite flower, beats away discreetly and almost secretly at the heart of the Première watch. Having no upper bridge, the carriage decorated with a camellia appears to be rotating in a weightless state. BRACELET Sold on a black alligator strap but presented on a black satin strap. 18-carat white gold double folding buckle set with 30 brilliant-cut diamonds
C. 18-carat white gold case (28.5 x 37 mm) set with 92 brilliant-cut diamonds (~1.67 carats). Black high tech ceramic bezel exclusively created for Only Watch. 18-carat white gold crown set with 13 brilliant-cut diamonds and black high tech ceramic cabochon. Black high tech ceramic case-back. D. Polished black high tech ceramic dial. Colourless anti reflection treated sapphire crystal. 18-carat white gold hands set with 15 brilliant-cut diamonds. Tourbillon cabochon set with 19 brilliant-cut diamonds. M. “Camélia Flying Tourbillon” Calibre. Movement exclusively developed for CHANEL by Renaud et Papi (APRP SA). Manual winding mechanical movement. 40 hour power reserve. Number of parts: 225. Components, chamfered, stretched, and circular grained. Number of rubies: 18. Flying Tourbillon: 73 components – carriage weight: 0.432 g. Frequency: 21’600 vibrations/ hour (3 Hz). Motor unit: 1 fixed clamp barrel. Spring torque: 720 g.mm. Custom designed oblong bottom plate. Shockproof system on the balance. Balance with variable inertia moment.
Estimate: 150,000 EUR - 200,000 EUR


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Links to all the articles in our countdown can be found on the original post

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